Waterboxer2TD Shopping list
Moderator: Fatmobile
Waterboxer2TD Shopping list
Well,
I'm still fighting w/ my '86 2.1 Waterboxer fuel pressure problem and have started to collect parts for a diesel swap. I've been reading all the great posts here but just want to double check on what might be the best set-up. I have the engine carrier bars already so my shopping list so far has:
AAZ 1.9 TD motor
DK Tranny from air-cooled
Bell housing & input shaft from tranny on 1.6 n/a donor
Passenger side motor mount bracket
Custom driver's side bracket
Custom exhaust
External oil cooler setup
Have I left anything out?
Thanks in advance!
Reiney
I'm still fighting w/ my '86 2.1 Waterboxer fuel pressure problem and have started to collect parts for a diesel swap. I've been reading all the great posts here but just want to double check on what might be the best set-up. I have the engine carrier bars already so my shopping list so far has:
AAZ 1.9 TD motor
DK Tranny from air-cooled
Bell housing & input shaft from tranny on 1.6 n/a donor
Passenger side motor mount bracket
Custom driver's side bracket
Custom exhaust
External oil cooler setup
Have I left anything out?
Thanks in advance!
Reiney
-
- Diesel Freak
- Posts: 199
- Joined: Sun Nov 13, 2005 2:53 pm
- Location: Montreal, QC, and StJohn's, Nfld, Canada
yes sir ... good idea
-I you will need to make the driver side arm from the block to the motor mount.
-You do not need to make the passenger side bracket, however you do need both sides of the front to back bars that hold the actual rubber motor mounts.
-There is also a piece of flat bar (35mmx4mmxmount distance) that connects the two bars like a sling under the engine. You will need to find images or I will send you some.
-If I were you.... I would use your existing WB trany and modify the nose mount or weld a new one. (If your trany is good that is.) On mine I didn't even change the input shaft I cut and round mine with a grinder. If you do that get some more advice since maybe there is some variance of length of shaft year to year. Mine fit perfectly with 3mm to spare (not much)... it was/ is important to set the pilot bearing to it's full depth.
-If you use an air cooled transmission you will (if I'm not mistaken) need to change the linkage too... a pain in the toukish,
other parts....
-starter
-fuel filter holder
-glow relay
-instrument panel (so you have the glow light).... it must be easy to rig one up to your existing panel... let me know if this becomes an issue.
from the Dvan
-flywheel
-oil pan
-oil pump pickup but not the oil pump
-hopefully you have a steel engine cover to pound the living daylight out of..... to clear the wonderful LDA enrichment and throttle on the TD injection pump. or go with the other angle of installation. (I think that method uses the AAZ oil pan.
Good luck and if I think of anything you will hear from me.
ciao
-I you will need to make the driver side arm from the block to the motor mount.
-You do not need to make the passenger side bracket, however you do need both sides of the front to back bars that hold the actual rubber motor mounts.
-There is also a piece of flat bar (35mmx4mmxmount distance) that connects the two bars like a sling under the engine. You will need to find images or I will send you some.
-If I were you.... I would use your existing WB trany and modify the nose mount or weld a new one. (If your trany is good that is.) On mine I didn't even change the input shaft I cut and round mine with a grinder. If you do that get some more advice since maybe there is some variance of length of shaft year to year. Mine fit perfectly with 3mm to spare (not much)... it was/ is important to set the pilot bearing to it's full depth.
-If you use an air cooled transmission you will (if I'm not mistaken) need to change the linkage too... a pain in the toukish,
other parts....
-starter
-fuel filter holder
-glow relay
-instrument panel (so you have the glow light).... it must be easy to rig one up to your existing panel... let me know if this becomes an issue.
from the Dvan
-flywheel
-oil pan
-oil pump pickup but not the oil pump
-hopefully you have a steel engine cover to pound the living daylight out of..... to clear the wonderful LDA enrichment and throttle on the TD injection pump. or go with the other angle of installation. (I think that method uses the AAZ oil pan.
Good luck and if I think of anything you will hear from me.
ciao
Thanks ... from what I read here I thought that the DK tranny didn't need any messing w/ the linkage but I'm definitely not sure about that. My tranny has had a blown syncro between 2nd & 3rd ever since I got it, not a big deal but it also needs a new clutch so I figured I'd just replace it if the DK model was a good fit.
Reiney
Reiney
-
- Diesel Freak
- Posts: 199
- Joined: Sun Nov 13, 2005 2:53 pm
- Location: Montreal, QC, and StJohn's, Nfld, Canada
hey Reiney...
The DK is great if you are using a D-van for the swap.... same linkage, bracket and such. If you have a WB-van the arrangement is different. You will need to change the linkage to use the air cooled transmission.
If you have a good shop like I do in the area... and blown sycro is not so expensive ($150-200Can with the trany out and in hand) The clutch/ pressure plate/ bearing... well you will need to buy a diesel set anyhow for the new flywheel... 119mm I think.
Word of warning..... Do not mess with the clutch since you will be running an engine almost twice the power of the design of the clutch. Be sure the flywheel is machined exactly to spec.
Pressure plate sachs- 3082 116 031 VW (VAG) made in Slovakia
clutch disk sachs - 1862 114 041 audi/ VW/ Seat (VAG) made in Germany
The DK is great if you are using a D-van for the swap.... same linkage, bracket and such. If you have a WB-van the arrangement is different. You will need to change the linkage to use the air cooled transmission.
If you have a good shop like I do in the area... and blown sycro is not so expensive ($150-200Can with the trany out and in hand) The clutch/ pressure plate/ bearing... well you will need to buy a diesel set anyhow for the new flywheel... 119mm I think.
Word of warning..... Do not mess with the clutch since you will be running an engine almost twice the power of the design of the clutch. Be sure the flywheel is machined exactly to spec.
Pressure plate sachs- 3082 116 031 VW (VAG) made in Slovakia
clutch disk sachs - 1862 114 041 audi/ VW/ Seat (VAG) made in Germany
Stopping is right about everything he's posted.
I would add that there are two different engine carrier bars. One is from '82 and has the rubber bushings at the ends of the bars. The other is from '83 and has the solid ends and does not require the metal cross bar. The '83 version shifts the engine approx 2" rearward. I know one of them requires reworking the front mount, but can't remember which. You'll also need to fab up coolant hoses, as the diesel ones are made from unobtainium.
Andrew
I would add that there are two different engine carrier bars. One is from '82 and has the rubber bushings at the ends of the bars. The other is from '83 and has the solid ends and does not require the metal cross bar. The '83 version shifts the engine approx 2" rearward. I know one of them requires reworking the front mount, but can't remember which. You'll also need to fab up coolant hoses, as the diesel ones are made from unobtainium.
Andrew
-
- Diesel Freak
- Posts: 199
- Joined: Sun Nov 13, 2005 2:53 pm
- Location: Montreal, QC, and StJohn's, Nfld, Canada
You know what?.... if you want to put ant diesel into your van you will need the other hole or make new holes (and welded nuts) for the mount or just weld the mount to the frame. The mount's position is about 35mm to the driver's side from the position of your's now...fyi. Also and this it important, if you don't use the late model swoop brackets you might need to modify your shifting linkage as well as the trany motor mount! Une autre pain in the toukish, as they say in Montreal.
Yes you can use either and you should be ready to cut weld and drill you way to the finish line. I think.... if you use the later model bars your job will be easier if not a joy. At that point the hardest thing to do is the making the driver's side motor bracket and have the engine living in the same place when you put it all together. (I did it backwards... I put it all together, then made the mount... you can ask if you want to know)
Yes you can use either and you should be ready to cut weld and drill you way to the finish line. I think.... if you use the later model bars your job will be easier if not a joy. At that point the hardest thing to do is the making the driver's side motor bracket and have the engine living in the same place when you put it all together. (I did it backwards... I put it all together, then made the mount... you can ask if you want to know)