I'm rebuilding my Injection Pump!

[Op-Ivy]

Rebuilding it finally! Took a good 4 hours today to get where I am. Have everything apart other than the enrichment throttle area, the bearing for the main shaft and some of the anaroid.

Right now however, I'm stuck.

Question 1: In the picture below, do the ball bearings need to be pressed out? I tried hammering them out and pressing them with a vice, no luck. Do they have to be taken out or is there something else that can be done? Couldn't find exact info with the search.




Question 2: Again, in the pictures below, is the bearing supposed to have a bit of play? That is to say, when the shaft is in the bearing, should there be a small amount of play? I think that the timing belt is pulling down on the IP gear which is causing the belt to slide to one side and become slightly frayed/worn on the edge.

Also, is this bearing pressed in? Is it hard to get out or get a replacement?




PS. I would not be able to do this rebuild without the help and contributions of everyone on this forum. We have a great community here and it is amazing how much information has been shared. Thank you to all!!

-Matt

[libbybapa]

The ball bearings can be hammered out. Tip the aneroid onto it's side with an appropriately sized socket under it so that the pressure is transferred from the casting to the socket (right around the ball bearing) and yet the ball bearing has room to fall out. Then use a small punch to tap on just the ball bearing on the upside of the aneroid. With a few good whacks, the one side should move enough to fall out. After the ball bearing has fallen out, flip the aneroid over and use the small punch to tap on the shaft to push the other ball bearing out. I think it is a good idea to tap those two holes and install machine screws with copper sealing washers (like the older pumps) so that doing it the next time is easy. With all of that said, the only reason to go through that procedure is if there is diesel fuel leaking into the aneroid assembly and out of the atmospheric bleed.

There should be almost no perceptible play between the shaft and the shaft bushings. Obviously it needs to be able to turn, but it should be quite tight. Those bushings are readily available Bosch replacement parts, but they will need to be reamed afterwards. I have never replaced those bushings myself (I have a machinist I trust do that), and so cannot comment on how hard it is to do.

Andrew

[Vincent Waldon]

You're doing great.... I'm getting ready to do mine so best of luck !!

I wonder if you could do me a favour... once you get to the throttle bushing could you measure the height for me as per this post from a while ago:

Hi all: 1986 TD Jetta with Bosch # 0 460 494 182 IP (VW part # 068 130 081F)... exactly like this one:

http://cgi.ebay.de/016-Einspritzpumpe-V ... 0069595949


It's leaking at the throttle shaft and the shaft is quite wobbly... gonna replace the O-ring and the bushing while I'm at it.

My Bosch dealer has multiple part numbers listed for the bushing and needs to know how tall it is (19mm 24mm ... evidently there are 6 different heights). They are 3-4 weeks away and I'd like to order it in advance of pulling my pump apart.. only want to do that once.

By any chance does anyone have this particular pump apart on a bench somewhere and can stick a mike on the throttle bushing ??

Assuming your pump is similar to mine, I'd sure appreciate knowing how tall the bushing is... thanks !!!!


Vince

[libbybapa]

Vincent, is it a 1.6TD pump? I'll try to measure the bushing this week and get back to you. I meant to respond to that thread of yours, but sometimes, just the trip to the garage and pulling out the calipers is more than I can manage.

Andrew

[Vincent Waldon]

I hear ya Andrew... just finished a gasser rebuild and new glow plugs on the diesel and I'm a little tired of the shop... but it's starting to go drip drip drip.

Yeah, it's the standard 1.6 TD pump with the nasty dual green throttle springs... can't get to the bushing without tearing it all apart and I only want to do that once !

One more thing for the FAQs if you ever get a chance to measure one... thanks.


Vince

[Op-Ivy]

The ball bearings can be hammered out. Tip the aneroid onto it's side with an appropriately sized socket under it so that the pressure is transferred from the casting to the socket (right around the ball bearing) and yet the ball bearing has room to fall out. Then use a small punch to tap on just the ball bearing on the upside of the aneroid. With a few good whacks, the one side should move enough to fall out. After the ball bearing has fallen out, flip the aneroid over and use the small punch to tap on the shaft to push the other ball bearing out. I think it is a good idea to tap those two holes and install machine screws with copper sealing washers (like the older pumps) so that doing it the next time is easy. With all of that said, the only reason to go through that procedure is if there is diesel fuel leaking into the aneroid assembly and out of the atmospheric bleed.

There should be almost no perceptible play between the shaft and the shaft bushings. Obviously it needs to be able to turn, but it should be quite tight. Those bushings are readily available Bosch replacement parts, but they will need to be reamed afterwards. I have never replaced those bushings myself (I have a machinist I trust do that), and so cannot comment on how hard it is to do.

Andrew

I guess I just have to "whack" it harder. Although I thought I was giving it pretty good . It is leaking out of the atmospheric bleed

Hmm, I wonder how hard it would be to change. By reamed I take it you mean pushed in? Has anyone else ever done this?


Vincent, I'll give you a measurement sometime this week. Depending on how long it takes me to get to it. Shouldn't be too long. A picture of the specific bushing might make it easier for me to find the specific part.

-Matt

[libbybapa]

No, by reamed I mean that the inside diameter of the bushing will be too small and that it needs to be bored to precisely fit your particular shaft. They do not come pre-sized.

Andrew

[Vincent Waldon]

Hi Op-Ivy.... unfortunately I can't show you a picture 'cause mine's not apart yet.... want to order the bushing first.

Yours is, thankfully, and the throttle bushing is the tall copper/bronze sleeve that the throttle shaft pokes out of... visible on the left hand side of your first picture to the left and just north of your red circle.


Vince

[Fatmobile]

The injection pump teardown/ put together (it's not a rebuild so...) thread, linked to in the general fora FAQs, is basically a journey to the bottom of the pump so the shaft bushing could be changed.
It has the part number, removal and installation instructions for the injection pump driveshaft bushings.

[Op-Ivy]

Hi Op-Ivy.... unfortunately I can't show you a picture 'cause mine's not apart yet.... want to order the bushing first.

Yours is, thankfully, and the throttle bushing is the tall copper/bronze sleeve that the throttle shaft pokes out of... visible on the left hand side of your first picture to the left and just north of your red circle.


Vince

Ahhh, thats it. You will have your measurement tomorrow night. I won't be home 'till tomorrow.

The injection pump teardown/ put together (it's not a rebuild so...) thread, linked to in the general fora FAQs, is basically a journey to the bottom of the pump so the shaft bushing could be changed.
It has the part number, removal and installation instructions for the injection pump driveshaft bushings.

Yes, I'm at that same stage. The pump is pretty much dismantled excluding the parts mentioned in my first post. However, I can't seem to find the part of the post showing how to remove/install the shaft bushing. I assume the thread you are referring to is: viewtopic.php?t=4172&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=15



-Matt

[Fatmobile]

Yes, that's the thread.
Zips names the part numbers and removal instructions on the first page... and clarifys removal in a later page.

[hagar]

This post --will be followed by --OLD hagar----better believe it.

hagar.

[rwest1]

Nearly all high mileage pumps that are being rebuilt/re-sealed also have a lot of wear on main shaft bushings. This wear needs to be repaired to insure a long reliable service life. IMO (and experience) the main shaft bushings (Bosch pn 1 460 400 004, 2 per pump, about $5 ea.) in the older VE pumps, can be R&R’ed, and reamed to size by most skilled mechanics with basic shop tools (if you have skill level and tools to dismantle and reseal a pump, this s/b no big deal). My local pump shop wanted $100 to ream the bushings (when you won’t cough up for a rebuild at their price, they try to make things painful), which got me looking at doing it myself. R&R ‘ing the bushings is pretty normal shop practice, I press (hydraulic) both out at once, front of case to back. Use a properly sized pusher, and be very careful not to gouge/damage the soft Al case. Same care in pushing in new bush’s, proper pusher, go slow, lots of spray Moly in hole and on bush. The tricky part of all this is hand reaming the bushings to fit the main shaft. I’m sure other tools would work, but I use an adjustable hand reamer that costs $10 dollars from Wholesale Tool (pn 1166-0060, 16.75 to18.25 mm adj. reamer), see link below. With pump case secured, use the largest “Tâ€

[Fatmobile]

R&R ‘ing the bushings is pretty normal shop practice, I press (hydraulic) both out at once, front of case to back.

In the injection pump teardown thread, Zips was saying to press both bushings away from the center.
There is a ridge in between the bushings that shouldn't be pushed through.
If this material is removed the bushings might not fit tight enough when pressed in.

[Fatmobile]

Same care in pushing in new bush’s, proper pusher, go slow, lots of spray Moly in hole and on bush.

The bushings are supposed to have something like locktight on them when pressed in (end of page 1, beginning of page 2, in the pump rebuild thread).

Nice point about not using abrasives to ream the bushing, I wouldn't have thought of that.
I wonder what my local bo$ch shop will want for reaming one.
I'll probably need to dig all the way down to the bushings and back on one this year... I don't trust myself to ream it right but I can do the rest