How the heck do I get this yhing loose from the shaft. Been trying for 3 days. Any secrets?
Bob
Help! removing IP pulley
Moderator: Fatmobile
Help! removing IP pulley
1981 Caddy diesel 119K with working r12 A/C!
Freshly rebuilt engine .020 over, rebuilt 4 speed recently converted to a FN 5 speed, new control arm, ball joints, steering rack, engine mounts, clutch, clutch cable,flywheel, all brakes, brake cylinders, wheels, tires, Audiovox cruise control, HID Headlights, LED instrument lights.
Bob Jupiter, FL
Freshly rebuilt engine .020 over, rebuilt 4 speed recently converted to a FN 5 speed, new control arm, ball joints, steering rack, engine mounts, clutch, clutch cable,flywheel, all brakes, brake cylinders, wheels, tires, Audiovox cruise control, HID Headlights, LED instrument lights.
Bob Jupiter, FL
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- Turbo Charger
- Posts: 1148
- Joined: Sat Dec 16, 2006 3:05 pm
- Location: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
It's a good investment.... you'll use it on the camshaft pulley some day, or the ball joints, or a battery terminal, or the steering wheel...
Not bad for 20 bucks !!
Vince
Not bad for 20 bucks !!
Vince
Vince
Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
2001 silver TDI Jetta Malone Stage 1.5 , 2001 blue TDI Jetta SBIII 216s Malone Stage 3
1970 Bay Window bus
Gone but not forgotten: 1969/1971 Beetles, 1969/1974 Westies, 1979 Rabbit, 1986 TD Jetta, 1992 gas Jetta, 1994 TD Jetta
Here's a small collection of HOW-TOs
Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
2001 silver TDI Jetta Malone Stage 1.5 , 2001 blue TDI Jetta SBIII 216s Malone Stage 3
1970 Bay Window bus
Gone but not forgotten: 1969/1971 Beetles, 1969/1974 Westies, 1979 Rabbit, 1986 TD Jetta, 1992 gas Jetta, 1994 TD Jetta
Here's a small collection of HOW-TOs
I used the type of puller you thread bolts through(always mix the types up), a couple washers, and nuts to fit the bolts.
Glue, solder, weld, epoxy,or whatever the washers to the nuts. Make sure the washers are larger than the two small holes of the sprocket. Feed the nut/washer combo through the large holes-magnetic tool helps-and slip them behind the small holes, tighten the bolts in. Loosen the nut on the IP shaft, but leave it on to protect the end of the shaft -make sure the puller won't hit the shaft when you use it.
WARNING! you may have to replace the nut after the puller is done with it (ask me how I know)
The puller does the work, tighten in small amounts while tapping with a rubber mallet.
Should pop off-good luck
Glue, solder, weld, epoxy,or whatever the washers to the nuts. Make sure the washers are larger than the two small holes of the sprocket. Feed the nut/washer combo through the large holes-magnetic tool helps-and slip them behind the small holes, tighten the bolts in. Loosen the nut on the IP shaft, but leave it on to protect the end of the shaft -make sure the puller won't hit the shaft when you use it.
WARNING! you may have to replace the nut after the puller is done with it (ask me how I know)
The puller does the work, tighten in small amounts while tapping with a rubber mallet.
Should pop off-good luck
"To the man with only a hammer in his toolbox, everything looks like a nail."
'83 Rabbit 1.6L-It's alive!
'83 Rabbit 1.6L-It's alive!
I got a generic 2/3 jaw puller at my local auto parts store. I use it in 2-jaw mode and hook into the 2 small holes in the sprocket. Some of them are stuck on there real good, I just about broke my puller on the last one but it did finally go.
I have pried off sprockets with screwdrivers before, but I worry about damage to the internal bushings/bearings in the pump.
I have pried off sprockets with screwdrivers before, but I worry about damage to the internal bushings/bearings in the pump.
'82 Diesel Rabbit • '88 Fox (RIP) • '88 Jetta (work in progress)
Despite the fact that I have several pullers, my usual first step is as follows. I loosen the nut a few turns, but leave it on the shaft. Next I take two large flat chisels and tap them one on either side of the IP sprocket. I apply a bit of tension that way, but distribute it evenly by placing them opposite each other, or close to it. Then I take a pointed punch and place it in the center of the injection pump shaft and tap it sharply with a hammer (not beating the crap out of it, but some good sharp taps). That almost always pops it off, and is faster and easier than fussing with a puller. There is not really any stress being placed on the injection pump, as all of the force of the hammer taps is sent to the sprocket and then to the chisels and to the engine block. The reason I leave the nut on the shaft is so that when the sprocket finally pops off, it doesn't go flying, land on my foot and get dented on the cement.
Andrew
Andrew
GOT IT OFF!!
Two screwdrivesr to pump pressure on it and light taps with a copper hammer for about 3 minutes, and off it came!
Bob
Two screwdrivesr to pump pressure on it and light taps with a copper hammer for about 3 minutes, and off it came!
Bob
1981 Caddy diesel 119K with working r12 A/C!
Freshly rebuilt engine .020 over, rebuilt 4 speed recently converted to a FN 5 speed, new control arm, ball joints, steering rack, engine mounts, clutch, clutch cable,flywheel, all brakes, brake cylinders, wheels, tires, Audiovox cruise control, HID Headlights, LED instrument lights.
Bob Jupiter, FL
Freshly rebuilt engine .020 over, rebuilt 4 speed recently converted to a FN 5 speed, new control arm, ball joints, steering rack, engine mounts, clutch, clutch cable,flywheel, all brakes, brake cylinders, wheels, tires, Audiovox cruise control, HID Headlights, LED instrument lights.
Bob Jupiter, FL