VE injector pump assembly pictures.

[lugnutgmc]

I did my best to follow all these instructions to rebuild my pump, and tried to test it when it I was finished, but even after I filled it with diesel (through the "out" port) and turned it over (clockwise), I could not get diesel to flow through it. It seemed difficult to turn as if something was binding up, but I did not check how easily the pump turned before I took it apart so its hard to say if its harder to turn before or after. I def. need two hands and a lot of ooomp to get it past what seems like a "sticking" point. It will only turn 20-25 degrees easily then it binds up. Any ideas what to look for when I pull it apart, also how easy should it turn over? Thanks for any ideas and thanks for this thread and all instructions.

[libbybapa]

As the cam rollers get to the humps of the camplate it becomes very hard to turn. Once past a hump it is easy again for a bit.

Andrew

[Fatmobile]

Spinning it by hand probably won't be enough to get fuel to flow out the return port.
Sometimes the engine has to be revved to get the vanes to slide outward enough to seal against the surface.

[lugnutgmc]

thanks for the quick replies, I guess I'll go ahead and put it back in and see if it works.

[greymatterfan]

Hi all -

I have a 1981 Audi 5000s Diesel that I've been working on a little bit and I made the mistake of taking out the Full Load Adjustment Screw and not marking or counting threads when I put it back in.. (yeah, nice one, know!)

Does anyone have recommendations on how to set this screw back in the proper place? I'm just trying to get the ballpark setting correct - I haven't been able to get the car running again, despite bleeding the fuel system and replacing a cracked fuel return line..

It has a washer and nut, just as pictured in this thread.. Should it be threaded all the way in, or backed out a few 1/4 turns from that position?

Any info appreciated!

[tawney]

greymatter: as far as starting it probably wouldn't make much difference if it were all the way in or a couple turns back. I'm assuming it has the stop collar that is compressed on the screw with the nut and washer in front of that. If so, I would probably thread it all the way in, get it running, and then back it out a quarter turn at a time, watch the quantity of black smoke in the exhaust at hard accelration each time, and compare performance. Then leave it where you like the smoke/economy/performance balance.

[Fatmobile]

Turn it all the way in and adjust it after it's running.
I forgot to screw it in after a reseal once and had a hard time getting it going.
The starter would turn the engine to the point it was actually idleing but shut off the starter and it would die,.. or idle but no faster.
That was with my foot to the floor.

You had your foot on the floor while cranking right?
I suppose you could crank long enough with your foot on the floor to filled the cylinders with diesel and hydrolock them so don't do it for too long.
What all did you do to the pump? Besides remove the max fuel screw?
How did you bleed the fuel system?

[greymatterfan]

Thanks Fatmobile & Tawney -

Sounds like that adjustment screw won't make as big of a difference to starting as I had thought... I'll just screw it in as suggested and then gradually back it off when it starts and runs..

As far as my work on it, I just replaced the copper washers on the bango fitting (the return line banjo), replaced the injector return lines (they were old and getting stiff) and the fuel return line.. & also the fuel supply line from the fuel filter to the injection pump.. (basically all the rubber lines except the portion from the metal fuel supply line to the fuel filter).

I left the return line off overnight when I replaced the copper washers and that's when my trouble began.. I'm sure a lot of air got in the system at that point and it was all downhill from there.

I've tried a few methods of priming, including making a special gas cap w/ a bike valve (presta valve) to gently pressurize the fuel system from the gas tank.. (with the key on to activate the fuel shutoff solenoid I just pump about 30 times w/ a bike pump to get a little pressure..)

It seems to work, there's fuel coming out of the return line and I now finally see a faint white mist coming out of the intake (from the injectors pumping I'm guessing - maybe when I stop turning it over an intake valve or two allow it to float up?)

It sounds like what I *haven't* been doing correctly is hitting the accelerator - I've been conservative with the pedal when it should probably be to the floor for a little while! (I'll try that as soon at the battery is charged back up again!)

I think I'm close (it sounded like it wants to run again) .. I was just unsure about that full load screw and how much effect it has on starting!

Thanks for the help!

[Fatmobile]

I'm not sure pressurizing the tank is the best way to prime the pump,... it puts pressure on the input and output of the pump at the same time.
If you disconnected the return line from the pump and plugged the line going back to the tank then there would only be pressure/fuel shoved into the input of the pump.

I prefer to put a vacuum on the pump output to pull fuel through the whole system.

Yeah, trying to remove air by cranking it goes slow if you don't hit the peddle and add some fuel,... very little fuel flows at idle, even less at cranking speeds.

[82vdub]

If your car has a block heater, plug that in as a warm engine may help it start. Also, check the glow plugs to make sure those are working too. Other than that, it sounds like it's about ready to run. Depending on how long you crank it, you may crank it long enough to where the glow plug cycle isn't doing any assisting and you need to reglow the engine. Sometimes these take a long time to get the air out of the system before they fire.

[Quantum TD]

If you can hold the pump in a vice, remove the loose parts inside the stop solenoid, and fill the pump through the OUT bolt. Then hook up clear fuel lines from a gallon of diesel to the IN and OUT on the pump, and spin the pump with an electric drill. You should see fuel moving in and out of the pump, and you should see fuel shooting out like a machine gun from the four delivery valves. If you don't get a good stream of fuel flowing through the in/out, nor the quick shots at the delivery valves I would suspect the vanes in the van pump are stuck. To get to those, you pretty much have to dissassemble the whole pump.

Good luck.

Just an update. I finally got around to putting this pump back together (see page 2). Anyway, I took my time and made sure all the reference marks were right. I also tested it on a bench with a drill. I had clear lines all around, and was able to test the pump. It seemed to pump just fine (fuel coming out of the out bolt, fuel coming in).

My only question now is, how much fuel should come out of the delivery valves when the pump is turning. It seemed like there was just a small spritz of fuel from each valve. Unfortunately, I had to do this all solo, so I could not see if they were shooting in sequence.

Any clue as to how much fuel you can expect to shoot out?

Thanks all.

[82vdub]

I recently replaced the large high pressure end o-ring on my IP and cranked the engine to see if fuel was coming out of the ports to see if I messed up my project. I will say it's not much fuel, and it sure doesn't shoot out either. It's just a dribble of fuel that comes out or each port as the engine was cranking.

As far as being able to identify which port is moving fuel at a given sprocket position (that could be related to TDC, which relates to the #1 cylinder), that's going to be a lot more complicated. It's probably do-able, but may take a lot more time than it's worth, IMO. It's moving fuel, so your rebuild was successful, but maybe the internals were assembled 180 degrees out. I think other than that, it's probably good to go.

[Quantum TD]

Thanks man. I just wanted to know what kind of fuel volume to look for. When someone here said it should "look like machine gun fire" I thought it would be heavy volume blasting out 10 feet.

As far as in the internals: I screwed up the first time during reassembly, but I got it right this time. I made sure I lined up the reference mark on the back side of the cam plate with the driveshaft. So, I'm fairly confident it all worked out.

Thanks for the tips everyone, esp. Andrew (libbybapa). I really liked the Vaseline trick (I originally used grease, but went back and cleaned it all off). The Vaseline really helped hold parts in place (springs, etc), while trying to install the distributor head. Works like a charm, and it's good to know it will all wash away eventually.

[82vdub]

I had thought as well that it would squirt out of the IP ports. When doing my testing, I placed a rag to block fuel from squirting across the engine bay, crank engine, check. Repeated many, many times. No wet rag. I did have a wet spot of fuel on a radiator hose, but after several more attempts, I got out the remote starter and then was able to actually see that fuel did come out, and it didn't squirt out either.

[tawney]

Okay, maybe I exaggerated about the 'machine gun'; heck, I've never owned one anyway. I did have a pump spinning at 1000 rpm with a drill, and little shots of fuel were popping out of the delivery valves pretty energetically; distance of travel might have been around a 12 inches or more, but it was a year ago. I just remember being surprised by it. Sorry for being misleading.

Steve