VE injector pump assembly pictures.

[libbybapa]

I use WD-40 and compressed air to clean them. Sometimes, I'll use a brass brush or a maroon scotchbrite pad. I always use compressed air to blow anything out of or off of any parts that are going into a pump. I wouldn't use WD-40 for assembly. I actually use vaseline.

Andrew

[hippiehulahooper]

I use WD-40 and compressed air to clean them. Sometimes, I'll use a brass brush or a maroon scotchbrite pad. I always use compressed air to blow anything out of or off of any parts that are going into a pump. I wouldn't use WD-40 for assembly. I actually use vaseline.

Andrew

huh. so the compressed air is is from a can or a compressor?

and you just put a light coat of vaseline on pretty much all the moving parts in there?

[libbybapa]

From a compressor. I use the blower nozzle. Yup, light coat all the moving parts. WD-40 evaporates, vaseline doesn't. Once diesel gets to it, tho, vaseline dissolves quickly.

Andrew

[Fatmobile]

I've heard of vasoline being used for engine assembly lube too. Plenty thick, until it's washed away by other petroluems.
I think carb cleaner is too harsh. Carb cleaner ruins nitrile gloves. When playing with chemicals; I suggest brake cleaner if you are going to spray parts clean.
Carb cleaner does do a better job on the exterior of a really filthy pump, and is better when removing varnish on the inside.
Vasoline is probably a good idea for a pump that might sit for awhile.
The ones I've been building were needed right away. I do like to hook a pump up to them when done and pump some diesel through,... with a normal banjo bolt on the output,... while turning the pump by hand.
To flush the insides.

[Quantum TD]

I'm gonna pull this one back up, as I have a few questions I hope some of the elders might help out with. I've got a problem as outlined below, and wanted to try to get some input on what my problem might be.

Here's the story:

About 4 months ago, I had a customer with a timing belt problem. It was running out, as someone had improperly mounted the pump. This wore the intermediate shaft bearings, and I had to repair that on the car: some may remember my post then.
Anyway, his pump was leaking pretty badly too. So, I suggested he get it resealed (I usually have the guy on ebay do them). But, he was in a bit of a rush, so I offered to let him use one of my known good pumps, which I had replaced the cold-start lever seals, and the distributor head seals on (i did the dist. head while on the car, and didn't counter hold the pump piston, and luckily, I didn't screw anything up). Anyway, that pump was not completely resealed (just the noted seals were replaced), and I recommended we reseal his original, working pump, and replace the injectors which had leaked so badly, they had eroded the tips off of his glow plugs.

That was 4 months ago. In the meantime, his pump sat in a tray in my Garage while I waited for him to get back to me. Well, last week he called out of the blue and said he wanted to do the repairs. Of course, I had not gotten his pump resealed, so I had to do it myself (I had some DGK 126 kits laying around, and I picked up an input shaft seal from the local Bosch dealer).

So, I had no problem replacing all the seals (except the governor shaft: too scared), but had a real issue with the dist. head. I followed the suggested of Andrew, and counter-held the piston in the dist head with a longer bolt: tightening it as I loosened the 4 outer bolts which held it in place. Well, something got screwed up, because, after it was all together, I tried to turn the pump over by hand, and it wouldn't move.

So, off came the dist. head. Sure enough, the cam rollers had all fallen out, and the washers were everywhere. I followed the info on this thread, and reassembled. At first, I put the cam-plate out 180 (WHOOPS!), and the car wouldn't start. It apeared to be pumping, since fuel was coming in thru the clear fuel line, but it certainly was not coming out of the lines. So, I realized I may have indexed the cam plate out by 180. So, I rotated the IP sprocket 180 degrees, and tried again. Same thing: no start. Off comes the pump again.

I took the dist. head off again to find that I did indeed index the cam plate inproperly, and it was out 180. So, I fixed that, put it all back together, and tried again. Put the pump back on the car, and still no start, and no fuel coming out of the lines. BUT, it appeared to be pumping fuel out of the bottom of the pump somewhere, as there was fuel below the pump when I removed it, and I could see no leaks up top. I'm thinking perhaps, the internal pressue got too high and it pissed out fuel. Like I said, the vane pump appeared to be in working order (pump was sucking fuel), but it did not pump fuel out of the head and thru the lines.

In the end, I just replaced the seals on my pump I had lent him, and called it a wash.

Now, I'd like to get his pump up and working, but I think I need to completely disassemble the pump for several reasons. One: the internals of his pump had some rust on them. Not really bad, but notable. I'm wondering if there is some small orifice in the pump that may have gotten clogged with debris and is preventing the pump from pushing the fuel out of the head. I only went so far as to pull the camplate and rollers. I did not mess with the governor (except to replace the top seal), and I indexed the governor control properly. Could a small piece of debris really prevent the pump from working? I'm damn certain the stuff I touched I did right in the end. I just can't be sure that there isn't something screwed up further down the line (like in the vane pump, or the centrifugal governor system.

So, I guess if there is a question in this lengthy post, it would be:

Has anyone ever removed the governor shaft (the long shaft on the sprocket side of the pump head that supports the governor), and if so, how do you calibrate it: or does it even need to be calibrated? Also, what about that small hole in the governor lever (the rod that slides over the governor shaft). If that's clogged, would you think it would prevent my pump from pumping fuel?

[tawney]

I guess you checked the stop solenoid to make sure it was working? If you had fuel in the pump and it was spinning well, and you still had no fuel at the injectors, I would suspect the top solenoid first.
You said fuel was entering the pump; was it flowing out of the pump through the OUT bolt and return line?

I'm not sure where crud would collect first to stop the flow of fuel to the injection plunger, but the hole in the sleeve over the governor shaft is to facilitate lubrication I think; it's not part of the flow of fuel.

If you can hold the pump in a vice, remove the loose parts inside the stop solenoid, and fill the pump through the OUT bolt. Then hook up clear fuel lines from a gallon of diesel to the IN and OUT on the pump, and spin the pump with an electric drill. You should see fuel moving in and out of the pump, and you should see fuel shooting out like a machine gun from the four delivery valves. If you don't get a good stream of fuel flowing through the in/out, nor the quick shots at the delivery valves I would suspect the vanes in the van pump are stuck. To get to those, you pretty much have to dissassemble the whole pump.

Good luck.

[Quantum-man]

I think Tawney's on the ball with the solenoid problem.
WRT to your other comments about misaligned pump causing intermediate shaft bearing to fail and the pump leaking I think the problems were all caused by overtightening the timing belt.
I always rotate the tensioner by had then nip up the bolt. I think a common error is to overtighten the belt due to the fear of it slipping. IMO the belt would need to be slacker than a prostitutes knickers for it to jump, unless something seized...

[Quantum TD]

Solenoid was the first thing I checked. It worked fine. I'll try the power-drill trick and see what happens.

[Quantum-man]

Solenoid was the first thing I checked. It worked fine. I'll try the power-drill trick and see what happens.

How did you check it? sometimes it can click, but 'wedge'. Pulling the plunger out before replacing solenoid would remove all doubt, unless of course you've satisfied yourself of its operation.

[Quantum TD]

I pulled the solenoid out completely, clamped a ground strap to the housing, and activated the switch with a power lead. It worked just fine.

I think I may know what the problem was/is. I'll post an update when I find out.


I am still however curious to know what tricks anyone has for making refence marks for the governor shaft removal for seal replacement.

[Fatmobile]

The last one I did; I lined the end of the governor shaft up with the edge of the pump.
Then believeing it was supposed to be 2mm in; I turned it 2 revolutions.
The threads looked M1 (1 thread per mm).
There is a topic over on the GTD forum; I think it was tintin who posted the depths they are supposed to sit from the face,.. which is different for some models but I can't remember which ones.

[hagar]

BOSCH V E assembling pumps -----vaughanatworld
Glow Plug-------- please let us know your location (on profile) .

hagar zes : ALL you newbies (and a few Old guard) feast your eyes on those pictures.---EH ? ----To graduate from hagars "TUNING" academy ---yes you must recognize all the parts.

At the Academy we use lots and LOTS of Paraffin Wax (ParoWax) for fitting parts. --even to the point of completely filling pumps.--works ? are you kidding -----it is like having a thousand little fingers holding shims and springs and rollers ----AND the Wax is not wasted.----it is the finest fuel for a diesel , known to man. --read my lips.

hagar.

PS : today is V E day at hagars -------it is raining Cats and Dogs.(12 C)

[Quantum TD]

The last one I did; I lined the end of the governor shaft up with the edge of the pump.
Then believeing it was supposed to be 2mm in; I turned it 2 revolutions.
The threads looked M1 (1 thread per mm).
There is a topic over on the GTD forum; I think it was tintin who posted the depths they are supposed to sit from the face,.. which is different for some models but I can't remember which ones.

Found it!

http://www.vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic ... t=governor

So, it seems that it would have to be 3mm, since the VW governor shaft is load dependent (according to the theory behind it described by tintin): as load (RPMs increase, caused by the governor moving closer to the timing sprocket, and hence closing off that hole) increases and alters internal pump pressure.

Or am I totally confused?

[Josh]

If you don't get a good stream of fuel flowing through the in/out, nor the quick shots at the delivery valves I would suspect the vanes in the van pump are stuck. To get to those, you pretty much have to dissassemble the whole pump.

Stuck vanes are thought to be due to corrosion and/or 'varnishing' of the diesel fuel (deposits which remain after the fuel evaporates or deteriorates over time).

I've been dying to try the following idea out, but haven't stumbled upon a stuck pump in the years since I read/came up with it!

If I diagnose stuck vanes, I'm likely to use two or three cans of "diesel purge" and pump it through the pump and fuel filter loop for a while, maybe with a hot pad on it, and also trying the drill on the nut since the vehicle likely could use an updated timing belt.

[tawney]

I admit it's hard to imagine that a working pump, running on clean fuel, would get stuck vanes. I've had two pumps with stuck vanes, but both of those had been sitting around in their owners' garages for who knows how long.

So, Quantum TD, what was the real cause of the problem?