hi folks,
new to the forum. after the initial sticker shock of having a mechanic replace the head on my van-again ($1500?!) i am strongly considering removing the head and replacing it with a rebuilt head myself. however, i have never done this before and have concerns about screwing something up: timing, putting the whatsit on before the thingamajig, etc. the manual is horrible for step by step, bad photos etc.
is there anyone out there who would be kind enough to provide a clear, step by step for removing the head and then replacing it on an 82 1.6 n/a diesel vanagon? i looked but did not see this on the forum. if it has been covered, please forgive me and point me to the post where this is spelled out. many thanks in advance!
dave
ps-ongoing coolant problems may have led to this: cold air blows out of heater, needle pegs, lights flash, panic ensues. was once every 6months,, now every 6 miles. now the signature white f5 cloud blowing out the tailpipe. jack suggests could be improper bleeding/burping of system by ignorant shop. thoughts?
82 diesel vanagon need help removing head
Moderator: Fatmobile
-
DD 82 diesel vanagon
- Glow Plug
- Posts: 2
- Joined: Sat Aug 25, 2007 6:37 pm
- Location: Portland, OR
-
VanagonExpress
I pulled a warm head off of a Caddy in less than 20 minutes, start to finish, including a good chug of Iced Tea--I did use compressed air speed wrench on most parts, but....
My Vanagon diesel would be easier...
other than putting everything at TDC, draining the anti freeze away from your work stations, and making sure you have several cans to toss bolts into....
it probably is one of the easiest things you can do--unless the back lift gate bangs you on the head 1/2 way thru this job.
The exhaust bolts under the van might sheer off, so be careful, with your knuckles, save the bolts, save the broken stuff,
I did take an elbow out once, snapping a head bolt off thus shattering my elbow on the fender....
You should have some decent tools, a couple of good long breaker bars, it will take a 19mm on the crank, 17mm on the pump, 10mm on the valve covers, 15mm on the tensioner, a 12 point star which I use a 1/2 deep socket on with a good extension for the head bolts, various 13mm on some models, and you are off to the races
Last time I did my head on one of my Diesel Vanagons, I broke the head in 1/2 of one of the head bolts, so when that engine dies,,,,,currently at 160k and still blowing soot, it comes out with the block attached.
You want a ton of rags, some hand cleaner, and dive in....
Save the headgasket, so you can analyze it for where your leak is, and its count on notches, (go the thickest on re -install),
Pull the head, intake and exhaust off as a unit....try not to drop it on your fingers or the ground. Makes for a mess if you slam it on concrete
Lay it face up so you don't damage the valves or the cam for that matter
use compressed air to remove anti freeze from the head bolts in the block for re install,,,,wipe down your cylinders and remove fluids
Make sure the head it back at TDC.
Make sure your crank is at TDC.
use a new belt
new belt tensioner
re install is just putting the head back on carefully. I found it easier to slide the head gasket in after the head is back on, then feed a couple of head bolts thru the gasket and loosely installing the head
head gaskets usually have the sequence on bolt torque , but start in the middle and work your way to the sides
My Vanagon diesel would be easier...
other than putting everything at TDC, draining the anti freeze away from your work stations, and making sure you have several cans to toss bolts into....
it probably is one of the easiest things you can do--unless the back lift gate bangs you on the head 1/2 way thru this job.
The exhaust bolts under the van might sheer off, so be careful, with your knuckles, save the bolts, save the broken stuff,
I did take an elbow out once, snapping a head bolt off thus shattering my elbow on the fender....
You should have some decent tools, a couple of good long breaker bars, it will take a 19mm on the crank, 17mm on the pump, 10mm on the valve covers, 15mm on the tensioner, a 12 point star which I use a 1/2 deep socket on with a good extension for the head bolts, various 13mm on some models, and you are off to the races
Last time I did my head on one of my Diesel Vanagons, I broke the head in 1/2 of one of the head bolts, so when that engine dies,,,,,currently at 160k and still blowing soot, it comes out with the block attached.
You want a ton of rags, some hand cleaner, and dive in....
Save the headgasket, so you can analyze it for where your leak is, and its count on notches, (go the thickest on re -install),
Pull the head, intake and exhaust off as a unit....try not to drop it on your fingers or the ground. Makes for a mess if you slam it on concrete
Lay it face up so you don't damage the valves or the cam for that matter
use compressed air to remove anti freeze from the head bolts in the block for re install,,,,wipe down your cylinders and remove fluids
Make sure the head it back at TDC.
Make sure your crank is at TDC.
use a new belt
new belt tensioner
re install is just putting the head back on carefully. I found it easier to slide the head gasket in after the head is back on, then feed a couple of head bolts thru the gasket and loosely installing the head
head gaskets usually have the sequence on bolt torque , but start in the middle and work your way to the sides
-
DD 82 diesel vanagon
- Glow Plug
- Posts: 2
- Joined: Sat Aug 25, 2007 6:37 pm
- Location: Portland, OR
thanks for all the information! you make it sound quite easy. couple of questions:
• what are the best ways to determine and mark TDC?
• do i need to do anything/time the IP at this time?
• how do i determine if i need a resurfaced/rebuilt head or just a gasket?
screwing up the timing/making sure everything was at TDC was my biggest fear. when i replaced the water pump i took the timing belt off (don't ask) and was one tooth pff—good thing i didn't kill the valves or worse.
i'm sure it will be obvious if the valves are bent or something like that, but how about if the head is slightly warped or has some hairline crack? or is it best to just get a rebuilt head at the same time?
i think i'm going to pick the van up from the shop this week (they haven't started yet) and give it a go. thanks for your help ... hopefully i'll learn a few things and be able to contribute something to the next guy in my shoes ..
• what are the best ways to determine and mark TDC?
• do i need to do anything/time the IP at this time?
• how do i determine if i need a resurfaced/rebuilt head or just a gasket?
screwing up the timing/making sure everything was at TDC was my biggest fear. when i replaced the water pump i took the timing belt off (don't ask) and was one tooth pff—good thing i didn't kill the valves or worse.
i'm sure it will be obvious if the valves are bent or something like that, but how about if the head is slightly warped or has some hairline crack? or is it best to just get a rebuilt head at the same time?
i think i'm going to pick the van up from the shop this week (they haven't started yet) and give it a go. thanks for your help ... hopefully i'll learn a few things and be able to contribute something to the next guy in my shoes ..
-
VanagonExpress
[quote="DD 82 diesel vanagon"]thanks for all the information! you make it sound quite easy. couple of questions:
• what are the best ways to determine and mark TDC?
• do i need to do anything/time the IP at this time?
• how do i determine if i need a resurfaced/rebuilt head or just a gasket?
I used white out, liquid paper. Chalk it up to being mid 50's, retired school teacher, now trucker, single for too many years....and saving my egg money for lazik
rotate your crank around til you see the "NOTCH" on the flywheel. Yes, I did time a couple of older bunnies on the metal chips between the notch before someone pointed out the correct mark. Look at the Bentley manual, I am sure they have a 1/2 assed picture of one, mark with someone that you can see from a distance.
unless the IP has been hit, or you had belt walk, leave it alone. You CAN, loosen your pump a bit so you can rotate it forward or back once the engine is running.
Head surface, I use a 2 foot long metal ruler, one I used to dream of shoving up the....of smart assed jr highers in Inter City classrooms, but one that is long enough as to cross the had length wise. You can move that straight edge around on the head to determine any dips, valleys or
concerns....
Base timing, go look at his sites tools. I own the gauge but call me stubborn Swede/German, I do things strictly by ear, feel, sound and instinct...
BUT!!!!!!!!!! That cam plate is cool deal, I used to use a flat file, until one of my kids bought me the whole kit for my birthday once....
Look at the end of the cam, determine in your own tool box what you can place in the cam slot, and it will hold.....and yes, the German engineers knew I was going to work on engines, so they off set the cam, you can only put the block in and lay it on the head ONE WAY.....
that is TDC.
Loosen the cam gear, I clobber mine with a big rubber mallet.
Timing: Look down at the crank, if the chip on the flywheel is as close to the middle of the hole.....AND!!!!!!!!!!!! Number 1 cylinder (closest to the pump) has the piston to the top....you are at TDC.
Cam timing is locked?
Put on the belt on the crank, feed it thru and around the intermediate shaft to the pump, and get the timing mark on the pump (Chip on the inside of the gear to the middle of the IP bracket)....put your belt on and over the injector pump.
Go back and check your crank, rotate it back and forth if your timing mark disappeared and put it BACK to TDC, recheck your pump----recheck your flywheel.
now put the head on....again, once the head is on, but not bolted down, slide a head gasket in and put one or two head bolts thru the headgasket and thread it to the block, leave yourself some room for rotating the crank cuz you want to go back and check the timing on the flywheel AGAIN.
Put all your head bolts on now, hand tight, or less.
OK....now it is all home free, for now. Put your cam sprocket on, leave it loose with the belt attached, you should now have your belt fed from the crank, over the intermediate shaft around the pump up to the cam and down......
head is hand tight bolted down...all bolts.
now recheck timing AGAIN! Crank in the middle and the chip on the flywheel showing? Good, pump timing with it's chip as close to the IP stamped line on that bracket? Good, head still has its block.....
bring the head down a couple of good tries on your sequence....
maybe 35lbs or so in sequence.
timing rechecked...
now once the head is secure, and your timing it at TDC on the crank and pump is at the stamped line, torque that baby down....
I use a clicker, and go 1/4 turn more, new bolts I recheck a bunch of times, and at 300 miles, and 1000 miles I loosen then re torque.
once the head is locked down, then do the belt tensioner, watching to make sure the crank does not move a fraction which will throw off the base timing....
once you have the tensioner ready to go tight, tighen down the cam sprocket, remove the block, tighten down the tensioner, go back and recheck timing again.....
fun aint it?
[/b]
• what are the best ways to determine and mark TDC?
• do i need to do anything/time the IP at this time?
• how do i determine if i need a resurfaced/rebuilt head or just a gasket?
I used white out, liquid paper. Chalk it up to being mid 50's, retired school teacher, now trucker, single for too many years....and saving my egg money for lazik
rotate your crank around til you see the "NOTCH" on the flywheel. Yes, I did time a couple of older bunnies on the metal chips between the notch before someone pointed out the correct mark. Look at the Bentley manual, I am sure they have a 1/2 assed picture of one, mark with someone that you can see from a distance.
unless the IP has been hit, or you had belt walk, leave it alone. You CAN, loosen your pump a bit so you can rotate it forward or back once the engine is running.
Head surface, I use a 2 foot long metal ruler, one I used to dream of shoving up the....of smart assed jr highers in Inter City classrooms, but one that is long enough as to cross the had length wise. You can move that straight edge around on the head to determine any dips, valleys or
concerns....
Base timing, go look at his sites tools. I own the gauge but call me stubborn Swede/German, I do things strictly by ear, feel, sound and instinct...
BUT!!!!!!!!!! That cam plate is cool deal, I used to use a flat file, until one of my kids bought me the whole kit for my birthday once....
Look at the end of the cam, determine in your own tool box what you can place in the cam slot, and it will hold.....and yes, the German engineers knew I was going to work on engines, so they off set the cam, you can only put the block in and lay it on the head ONE WAY.....
that is TDC.
Loosen the cam gear, I clobber mine with a big rubber mallet.
Timing: Look down at the crank, if the chip on the flywheel is as close to the middle of the hole.....AND!!!!!!!!!!!! Number 1 cylinder (closest to the pump) has the piston to the top....you are at TDC.
Cam timing is locked?
Put on the belt on the crank, feed it thru and around the intermediate shaft to the pump, and get the timing mark on the pump (Chip on the inside of the gear to the middle of the IP bracket)....put your belt on and over the injector pump.
Go back and check your crank, rotate it back and forth if your timing mark disappeared and put it BACK to TDC, recheck your pump----recheck your flywheel.
now put the head on....again, once the head is on, but not bolted down, slide a head gasket in and put one or two head bolts thru the headgasket and thread it to the block, leave yourself some room for rotating the crank cuz you want to go back and check the timing on the flywheel AGAIN.
Put all your head bolts on now, hand tight, or less.
OK....now it is all home free, for now. Put your cam sprocket on, leave it loose with the belt attached, you should now have your belt fed from the crank, over the intermediate shaft around the pump up to the cam and down......
head is hand tight bolted down...all bolts.
now recheck timing AGAIN! Crank in the middle and the chip on the flywheel showing? Good, pump timing with it's chip as close to the IP stamped line on that bracket? Good, head still has its block.....
bring the head down a couple of good tries on your sequence....
maybe 35lbs or so in sequence.
timing rechecked...
now once the head is secure, and your timing it at TDC on the crank and pump is at the stamped line, torque that baby down....
I use a clicker, and go 1/4 turn more, new bolts I recheck a bunch of times, and at 300 miles, and 1000 miles I loosen then re torque.
once the head is locked down, then do the belt tensioner, watching to make sure the crank does not move a fraction which will throw off the base timing....
once you have the tensioner ready to go tight, tighen down the cam sprocket, remove the block, tighten down the tensioner, go back and recheck timing again.....
fun aint it?
[/b]