$400 USD/85 Jetta 1.6TD/My Rebuild Journey

This is a place for us to share progress on and upgrades to our vw diesels.

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nicknack2
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Location: Rio Rico, AZ (Nogales, AZ)

FInally got it off

Post by nicknack2 »

Finally got the head off only to find some weird stuff here are some pics of the head and #1 piston. As you can see between the intake and exhaust valves there is a hole with treads, on 3 of the combustion chambers,
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On #2 you can see it plugged up, but kind of like something was jammed in there
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The area between the valves(holes and threads) is where this heads usually crack, unless I’m mistaken I have never seen this holes between the valves, is this because the engine is a turbo??? has anybody seen this before?

Pistonton#1 has markings as if the bottom part of the piston was hitting something(rights at the bottom of the valve cutoff area, the other 3 pistons have the same markings.
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Let me know what u guys think.
Last edited by nicknack2 on Fri Dec 28, 2007 10:50 am, edited 1 time in total.
Fatmobile
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Post by Fatmobile »

I've heard of them plugging the cracks between the valves,.. but I've never them fall out.
Great pictures.
It would be nice to find out who rebuilt it and show them these fine pics.
'91 Golf gasser converted to a 12mm pump, M-TDI.
'84 1.6TD Rabbit with a VNT-15 turbo, still setup to run on vegetable oil.
'84 GTI with 1.7TD pistons and intercooled.
2003 TDI wagon
2000 TDI Jetta.
nicknack2
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Post by nicknack2 »

Thanks Fatmobile, if they use plugs to fix the cracks... I'm starting to believe that the plugs fell in to the combustion chambers and the piston hit the plugs making marks on the bottom/straight/square part of cut off part of the piston, how would I be able to test the head????, the engine was runing when I bought the car for $400 (I knew what I was getting in to, I bought the car as a hobby and to learn more about my passion Diesels, so no regrets :wink: ), I pulled the engine off, it was just smoking alot and the previous owner said that once it started to run away but he was able to save it. As you seen the intershaft bearings were bad/shot, I'm sure the rings/pistons are bad and now the head....
I bought a full rebuild kit from Jack with pistons at .20 but I'm starting to think that the engine was rebuilt before and may be the block has already been cut and wore past .20 :cry: .... any advice would be great! on a good note the cylinders walls show no damage! :D

I'm going to post the pics of the head/plugs on a different tread on the forum and see if Hagar have any recomendations
nicknack2
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Location: Rio Rico, AZ (Nogales, AZ)

Post by nicknack2 »

Well, I clened up one of the old pistons and got the size off of it, it is 76.48 mm so the bottom end is still "stock" the pistons that Jack sent me are 76.98, I wonder why??? :?: the manual states that the block can be cut 3 times(bored out) at .10, .20, and so on, but he skipped the .10 he sent me the .20 right off, also I notice all his complete kits start with the .20 sizes any body knows why? could it be because the most engines by the time they need rebuid are past the .10 tolerances/limits?
Fatmobile
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Post by Fatmobile »

I should probably look before I say this but I think the biggest (2nd oversize) is 77.48,... so 76.98 is halfway/ 1st oversize.
'91 Golf gasser converted to a 12mm pump, M-TDI.
'84 1.6TD Rabbit with a VNT-15 turbo, still setup to run on vegetable oil.
'84 GTI with 1.7TD pistons and intercooled.
2003 TDI wagon
2000 TDI Jetta.
nicknack2
Diesel Freak
Posts: 123
Joined: Sat Apr 28, 2007 11:34 am
Location: Rio Rico, AZ (Nogales, AZ)

BAD NEWS!!!!

Post by nicknack2 »

guys finally I got the engine all apart and taken to the machine shop, and the machinist said that I need the engine to be cut at the 3rd over size, yeah...excess wear on the cylinder walls, the problem is that I bought the kit from Jack that is for the 2nd over size and now Im stuck with a set of pistons that are too small, I'll call jack tomorow and see if he'll take them back and sell me the ones for the 3rd over size, if not I will have a brand new set of turbo pistons(1.6) for sale.... wish me luck!!!!!
MPalm
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Post by MPalm »

Good luck! :D
The problem with cylinder bores is that they get oval, then you have to go really big with the re bore to be able to make them round.
Golf IV TDI -98 330000km
nicknack2
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Location: Rio Rico, AZ (Nogales, AZ)

Post by nicknack2 »

I spoked to Jack (via e-mail) over the weekend and told him about the situation, and he is going to take the .020 pistons back and send me the .040 that I need :lol: (for the re-stoking fee) very nice of him. As soon I as I receive my pistons, I will begin the reassemble of the mighty 1.6 TD!!! I will post pics when I get the block back from the machinist.
rallydiesel
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Post by rallydiesel »

The head can be pressure-tested. You can tell from the pics that you will need the head reconditioned. Or maybe it would be better to find a decent used head. I don't even know if the pre-chambers can be fill welded because of the unique alloy. The head was probably fine before the person put those plugs in. It is common to have a crack between the valves.
nicknack2
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Joined: Sat Apr 28, 2007 11:34 am
Location: Rio Rico, AZ (Nogales, AZ)

Post by nicknack2 »

Jack was telling yesterday that there is no coolant runing behind the area where the holes are and that the the head might be ok, I will take the injectors off and will take it to the machine shop and get it tested, also talked to the machine shop and said that they have seen heads that had been pluged in the past.... so Im just not sure I saw a Eco-diesel head in Ebay for $100 bucks the car it was in overheated, but owner claims that he took it to the machine shop and and got it tested and came back ok.

RALLYDIESEL

why are u mentioning the prechamber you see anyhing wrong with mine?
I don't even know if the pre-chambers can be fill welded because of the unique alloy
Kanzan
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water pump housing

Post by Kanzan »

Did you ever get the broken bolts out of your water pump housing? Had several broken off in mine. Finally used the wire welder, and welded a spare nut on each one of them. The welding put LOTS of heat on the broken bolt. Work them gently, back and forth. Add some lube, all of them came out, and saved the threads, also the cost of a new housing. Kanzan
nicknack2
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Joined: Sat Apr 28, 2007 11:34 am
Location: Rio Rico, AZ (Nogales, AZ)

Post by nicknack2 »

no I have not work on the W/pump my block is in the machineshop as we speak, but got couple of pics to share... of my crank where the front seal seats. I have heard people move the position of the seal to avoid a iol leak due to groved cranks any body knows how this is achieved?

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'85 Jetta, 06' Jetta, 01' Duramax
Brewing BD, using it @ B40
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82rabbitdiesel
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Post by 82rabbitdiesel »

nicknack2 wrote:no I have not work on the W/pump my block is in the machineshop as we speak, but got couple of pics to share... of my crank where the front seal seats. I have heard people move the position of the seal to avoid a iol leak due to groved cranks any body knows how this is achieved?
you will need to get a sleeve, it goes over the crank at the seal area. seal will go in the same place but will have to be the size of the sleeve. you will freeze/heat the sleeve/crank and it will be a press fit when they cool to room temp. sure jack knows where to get one.
Carlos Galvos wrote: The steering wheel(81VWRabbit L) is pleasant to grip, and the instrumentation is cleanly and logically laid out in a manner one would expect from a fine European car.(posted on EBAY)
82 Rabbit Diesel, 2" lift, "45 mpg average"
rallydiesel
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Post by rallydiesel »

Whoops, never mind what I said about the prechambers. I don't know what I was thinking.
nicknack2
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Joined: Sat Apr 28, 2007 11:34 am
Location: Rio Rico, AZ (Nogales, AZ)

Post by nicknack2 »

I called Jack today and asked him about the "grove" on the Crankshaft, he said that he has seen many many of them and that there is nothing that Ishould worry about.....
'85 Jetta, 06' Jetta, 01' Duramax
Brewing BD, using it @ B40
"NAV"
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