oil pan gasket

dieselsrock · Post by **dieselsrock** » Wed Nov 21, 2007 11:11 am

I have an oil pan gasket problem. I recently discovered that one of my oil pan bolts is broke off in the block (and its not a thru hole either), and thus the reason I have a leaking pan. I tried replacing gasket myself and might have used wrong stuff (permatex high tack) on it and maybe tighten too much as well. Not sure but it still leaks. I was thinking about trying one of those rubber oil pan gaskets I saw on Germanautoparts.com, but if I cant get that bolt out I might just have same problem, not sure. I suppose I could pay some shop an exorbitant amount of money to try and remove the broken oil pan bolt and do a gasket too, but i kinda have more time than money haha. Anybody have any ideas?

82vdub · Post by **82vdub** » Wed Nov 21, 2007 11:54 am

Some thoughts. I've never had much luck at using bolt extractor tools, so I've always reverted to bringing my problem to someone that has the knowledge about removing rusted or broken bolts. Removing one every 5 years isn't enough experience for me to know what to do like someone that does 5 a year.

If there is any portion of the old bolt that sticks above the block and you have access to a wire feed welder, you can weld a nut or bolt onto the end of what's left and then try to turn out the bolt from that point. Or, you can try drilling out the old bolt and retap the hole larger if needed. I don't believe there are any oil or water passages where the bolts are. If you can find a reverse cut drill bit, that may help and catch the old bolt and turn it out for you too. I'm not sure if they make reverse cut drill bits, but they do for some things.

VanagonExpress · Post by **VanagonExpress** » Wed Nov 21, 2007 12:21 pm

Unless it is one of those silly 10mms next to the flywheel....

extract it out,

Sears sells a really cool setup for about 35 bucks. I sheared off motor mount bolts on one of my diesel Vanagons. Bought this kit and it was cool.

It fits on the end of a drill, which you use in reverse, you hit the top of the bolt that is sheared off, and it backs it out. Has some cutting teeth that grab the metal and backs it out

vwkook · Post by **vwkook** » Wed Nov 21, 2007 1:38 pm

I can't imagine that an oil pan bolt would be difficult to use an ez-out on. I doubt it would bind like a bolt going into a water pump housing or head. (something not made of cast iron) I had to extract a broken off glow plug a few months ago. That was probably the most difficult bolt extraction for me yet. Have patience in doing it, and I'm sure you'll succeed.

Greenmachine · Post by **Greenmachine** » Wed Nov 21, 2007 2:03 pm

Might I add .02: Avoid the cheapo extractor kit from FLAPS. The small extractors break off all too easily in the bolt you want out and then your pain is doubled and time wasted.

You're better off spending the money on one quality extractor, or maybe the kit Vanagon Express suggested. If it's not flush or below block try slotting and flathead screwdriver.

Heat it with a torch first or work on warm engine.

surfcam · Post by **surfcam** » Wed Nov 21, 2007 2:15 pm

After you have tried all of the about. A small bit in a die grinder will do it. You have to take it down the center then slowly to each side. Splitting the bolt and relieving the pressure. Just be careful not to go to far into the thread. As long as you don't go to far into the thread you should be fine. If you do there's always healy coil or drill a bit deeper and tap it out or over size it. You will need a face shield and a welders beany. Also some hand eye coordination. Even if you do lose some of the thread after you tap it out your not usually losing all that much straight and its not a real critical area for strength.

82vdub · Post by **82vdub** » Wed Nov 21, 2007 2:15 pm

Avoid the cheapo extractor kit

That's probably why I learned to not do it myself. After breaking off a drill bit or extractor in a hole, the poor guy trying to get it out has a lot more work to do to get it all out.

VanagonExpress · Post by **VanagonExpress** » Wed Nov 21, 2007 2:21 pm

Chances are those bolts are not in all that tight
unless some like me who uses an air wrench cranked the bolt down to 200 lbs of torque

then the head shears off

libbybapa · Post by **libbybapa** » Wed Nov 21, 2007 2:51 pm

If there is still a section sticking out, one of my favorite tricks is to pound a 12 point socket over the end of the bolt. If you are determined to use a bolt extractor then use the largest one you can and start by drilling a hole as large as possible in the center of the bolt. Once the hole is drilled through the bolt squirt some PBblaster up into the bolt to lubricate from the top of the bolt.

I would personally recommend the the windage tray and integral rubber gasket also. Works very well. I would also recommend using the appropriate torque and proper torque wrench when installing the pan and to cut the torque rating in half for the bolts that thread into the aluminum seal retainers.

Andrew

82vdub · Post by **82vdub** » Wed Nov 21, 2007 3:00 pm

What about locktiting the bolts so they don't work loose? I think that is my current issue, and what I'm going to fix in a day or so since the engine is out.

Quantum-man · Post by **Quantum-man** » Wed Nov 21, 2007 6:27 pm

Chances are that the bolt lost it's head from overtightening rather than loosening.Therefore it wont be tight [unless some plonker used an overlong bolt

]
This event is often from successive attempts to cure leaks from old gaskets by nipping up a bit nipping up a bit nipping up a bit

Threads will be oiled...
This is the same mistake as above the ground... on the valve cover

Work on all these bolts with a 1/4" socket set only

That is all it takes believe me

wkoucky · Post by **wkoucky** » Wed Nov 21, 2007 6:30 pm

I too, have a slight oil pan leak. I bought a gasket from VW because I wanted to fix the oil pan this weekend. It is a much more substantial gasket then the one I put on. Should I use a sealant or just the rubber gasket?

VanagonExpress · Post by **VanagonExpress** » Wed Nov 21, 2007 6:52 pm

The 3 or so 10mms at the flywheel are a PIT tookas. I used a 1/4 socket and a long extension

Rodney Neis · Post by **Rodney Neis** » Wed Nov 21, 2007 7:14 pm

When trying to remove the water pump housing from my 79, the head of one of the lower bolts broke off. The bolt was rusted/corroded to the housing. There was just enough bolt showing after removing the A/C compressor bracket to lock a pair of vise grips on, still couldn't get enough bite to brake the bolt loose. A neighbor recommended heating the housing with a small propane torch and hitting the bolt with a hammer while heating. We had to get it pretty hot, but with each tap rust came out of the bolt hole, so tried the vise grips again, out came the bolt. I've used the torch and hammer on two other bolts that didn't want to come out of the engine block, worked everytime.

rallydiesel · Post by **rallydiesel** » Thu Nov 22, 2007 10:13 am

Where do you get the rubber oil pan gasket? I have the rubber valve cover one and love it but I didn't know there was one for the oil pan.