Waterpump replacement 1991 jetta td without aircondition

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vixentd
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Waterpump replacement 1991 jetta td without aircondition

Post by vixentd »

Having just finished doing a water pump on a 1991 Jetta td. It is much easier to replace the entire pump than just the front half, and not much more money. The following list may help someone. It is not a difficult job. When you remove parts use a baggie and label if you are not sure where parts may go later.

1. Disconnect battery - as you will be removing altenator and do not want to short out anything. Make sure you have the correct radio code if you have the stock radio. .
2. Remove bottom rad hose and drain antifreeze. Remove top rad hose to give extra room for working.
3. If you have power steering it must be removed.
a. Losen the belt by loosing the two 13 mm bolts on the power steering pump and the one 13 mm bolt on top of the power steering pump.
b.You will not be able to see the top 13 mm bolt, but put a 13 mm socket on a 6 inch extension and slide it in on the top of the pump.
c. Loosen the hidden bolt.
d. Now lossen the 13 mm bolt on the Power steering adjuster so the adjuster can be made to loosen the belt.
e. Remove the power steering pump belt once you have loosened these.
f. There are now two 13 mm bolts that go vertical that attach the power steering bracked to the edge of the block, just to the edge of the oil pan. These will be removed and the power steering and bracket will drop down and can be rested on the ground. Do not remove any power steering hoses. BECAREFUL AS THE HOSE FROM THE PUMP TO THE RESERVOIR MUST NOT CAUSE MUCH STRESS ON THE RESERVOIR OR YOU WILL BREAK OFF THE PLASTIC NIPPLE OF THE RESERVOIR TANK AS THESE WILL BE NOW VERY BRITTLE.
4. Remove the altenator. A 17 mm bolt up top and a 13 mm bolt underneath the altenator. Disconnect the electrical harness. You will need an 8 mm socket and a 13mm for the fittings on the back of the altenator.
5. Now is a good time once the altenator is out to remove the two water hoses on the water pump. I removed the bolt holding the dip stick to get a little extra room to slide back the hoses. If they are spring loaded factory clamps on these hoses you may want to invest in a special pair of pliers.
6. You will now see two 13 mm bolts on the bottom of the altenator bracket that also go through the water pump. You will neet to remove the bracket to get to the water pump below. At the top of the bracket you will need to remove a small angle bracket held on by two 13 mm bolts. This anchors the inside metal timing belt cover to the bracket you are going to remove.
7. There is also one 10 mm nut about 5 inches belove this that secures the lower timing belt plastic cover to the water pump hosing. Remove the nut and remember to transfer this T bolt to your new pump. MAKE SURE TO USE SOME TAPE TO HOLD IT IN PLACE ON THE NEW PUMP OTHER WISE IT CAN SHIFT AND WHEN YOU TIGHTEN THE LARGE BRACKET CAN GET CAUGHT BETWEEN THE WATER PUMP AND LARGE BRACKET AND CRACK THE WATER PUMP HOUSING.
8. If you have cruise control you need to remove the bracket below the injection pump. Two 17 mm bolts.
9. Now you can see with a light the two hidden 13 mm bolts on the top. The one nearest the timing belt can be removed with a 13 mm 1/4 drive with a swivel and extension.
10. The other 13 mm bolt can be removed by using an S 13 mm wrench or heating up and bending a 13 mm wrench. The bend should start about 3/4 of an inch from the closed end of the wrench and bent about 90 degrees. This will allow you to side the end of the wrench on the hidden bolt and move it about 2 inches. Just enough to get it off.
11. The bottom two bolts are each to remove as they are right out in the open.
12. The water pump and altenator bracket can now be removed.
13. You will need to remove the 6 mm allan head socket head bolts the hold the water pump pulley as this will be transferred to the new water pump. Make sure to drive the 6mm allan socket in to loosen and also to ensure the 6 mm Allan head will not slip. An air socket will remove then quickly. If an air socket is not available then use a ratchet and wedge a screw driver into the space next to the socket bolts and to stop the pulley from spinning when try to remove the allan head bolt. TAKE THE Pulley TO AN AUTO STORE AND BUY A WIDER BELT THAT WILL NOT RIDE DOWN TO THE BOTTOM OF THE PULLEY AS MOST PULLEYS ARE WORN. I used a Dayco 17390. Yours may be different to depending how bad your pulley is worn.
14. Remove the two thermostat bolts as you will reuse the housing only. 15. Flip the new water pump so that the thermostat housing faces up and install a new thermostat in and then the rubber o ring in the thermostat housing and fasten down. Much easier this way than doing upsdie down when installed.
16. Make sure to clean the block carefully, and use a new O ring on the waterpump that mates to the block.
17. Make sure before you slide the waterpump and housing in that the T bolt is taped or fastened so it can not move.
18. Make sure to clean the 4 altenator housing bolts on a wire wheel and appy antisieze to them. Then carefully guide them into the 4 holes and clean out the threads before reinstalling the pump. You do not want the bolts to go in tight.
19. The 4 13 mm bolts now will go through the altenator bracket and water pump. Slide the water pump onto the two hoses. The bottom two bolts will easily go in, but don't tighten. Using your finger you can start the bolt nearest the dipstick and a 1/4 13 mm socket on the one bolt by the timing belt will start them. You may have to jiggle the bracket a bit to get them to start. Tighten to the correct torque.
20. Hook up the two hoses to the water pump and the bottom rad hose. Connect the top rad hose, and disconnect at the cylinder head and fill with fluid. Now fill the reservoir and most of the air should be out.
21. Leave it for 15 mins and check for leaks before you go further. Now continue on. If it leaks now is the time to find out ( Perhaps an O ring has slipped)
22. Reassemble all components and reconnect batter. Make sure to burp the system to remove all air. Squeeze the top hose and run with the heater on, to make sure hot heat is coming out. Watch the level closely as it sometimes takes a while to get all the air out.

Relax you have saved yourself a few hundred dollars on the install.
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surfcam
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Post by surfcam »

Your making me feel guilty about not changing my water pump. I heard some weir noisy coming from my Golf a week ago. When I check a little closer I noticed my water pump pulley turning like a red river cart wheel. I'm kind of waiting for the next chinook (warm Pacific air) to show up but its the coldest winter since 94. Tuesdays going to be 1C. Last year we had lots of days above 10C.
99 TDI Jetta (Z1 engine code)
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tylernt
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Post by tylernt »

Yes, without A/C it's easier to pull the whole housing -- that's how I did my Fox. Don't have to disturb the timing belt that way, which is nice.

Nice writeup.
'82 Diesel Rabbit • '88 Fox (RIP) • '88 Jetta (work in progress)
wvbiodiesel
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Re: Waterpump replacement 1991 jetta td without aircondition

Post by wvbiodiesel »

Thanks vixentd for that great write-up. I have the Jetta with a/c. I tried to take off just the waterpump, broke two bolts on it, so now I am going after the whole thing. Step ten is the doosie! Is there any other way? I'm not so good at making my own tools. . . I just found out what an s wrench is. Now I just need to find one!
That son of a gun is really starting to bother me. I tried to take off the plate that holds the dipstick in place. I thought it would give me more room, but it's bolts are just about as tricky. Is this feeling Fahrvergnügen?

Thanks for your help,
Matt
82vdub
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Re: Waterpump replacement 1991 jetta td without aircondition

Post by 82vdub »

I tried to remove my waterpump on ole 82 with AC (without the bent wrench), and after a long time, finally gave up and removed the IP. If your timing belt is a year or more old, just buck up and change them all.
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bscutt
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Re: Waterpump replacement 1991 jetta td without aircondition

Post by bscutt »

Agreed, I after looking at my 82 with AC there was no way I would have tried to do the water pump without pulling the whole thing apart. Since I had to pull the IP anyway for a bad seal it was a no brainer to avoid contorting myself to try to finagle that pump out of there without removing the whole casting.
Bob

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CedricOls
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Re:

Post by CedricOls »

tylernt wrote: Sun Dec 09, 2007 7:31 pm Yes, without A/C it's easier to pull the whole housing -- that's how I did my Crazy Bulk Fox. Don't have to disturb the timing belt that way, which is nice.

Nice writeup.
Yes not having to mess with the timing belt should make this a lot easier. I'll pull it out today as I need to replace the waterpump.
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