injection pump shaft bushings

[Fatmobile]

I tore a pump completely apart to replace the shaft bushings,
made a special tool for pulling the old bushings but the camera and new tool aren't in the same place right now.

I sent it in to have the shaft polished and bushings sized.
Went to pick it up and the shaft felt a little sloppy. He explained that the shaft had some runout and it's hard to line bore it or reem it at a taper.
From what I've read; it's supposed to be .001" clearance. He said he took off about .0035 from the bushings.
Not much room to play there...sooo I suppose a straight shaft is a good place to start. Maybe we could reem one bushing then install the second bushing and reem it to the smaller diameter of the less worn area.... I'll have to see which area was worn the most.
This is the first pump I've rebuilt from the bushings up and I'm already learning$$$.

[libbybapa]

Adjustable hand reamers are about $20 apiece at Enco. I'd rather have the tool than the excuse from someone I paid. Also, considering the bushings need to be reamed, having the shaft trued up first should be quite possible. great work, tho. Looking forward to pics.

Andrew

[tawney]

$10.25 reamer: http://www.wttool.com/product-exec/prod ... and_Reamer

I bought one, but haven't used it yet; I pulled the bushings out, put 'em back in, and thought I would get back to it later. Been a year now; let us know how it goes, with pictures.

I 'borrowed' this from rwest1 in another thread, (I'm rebuilding my injection pump,) and edited it for brevity:


Posted: Wed May 02, 2007 10:02 pm

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IMO (and experience) the main shaft bushings (Bosch pn 1 460 400 004, 2 per pump, about $5 ea.) in the older VE pumps can be reamed to size by most skilled mechanics with basic shop tools (if you have skill level and tools to dismantle and reseal a pump, this s/b no big deal). The tricky part of all this is hand reaming the bushings to fit the main shaft. With pump case secured, use the largest “Tâ€

[rallydiesel]

I have a spare pump with a lot of play that I brought to a machine shop with bushings to get reamed. Job ended up pretty sloppy. At least the bushings are cheap so I will try again at another place.

[CoolAirVw]

Giggle.... that link shows a "Adjustable Hand Reamer".... but in the description of the product it shows "High Speed". Little contradiction there..

I've never reamed IP bushings but we ream aluminum valve bodies at work and we always lubricate with "majic tap". Might be helpful to control binding and stuttering.

[VW Jon]

Probably means high speed steel (HSS). The actual type of material the tool is made from.

[surfcam]

I've done a lot of reaming. Mostly big bores. To be successful I found that a lot of measuring helps. Say you do 12 passes and you remove one ten thousandth of an inch. You could double it and maybe go for two. With telescopic gauges I can measure down to 2 ten thousandth of an inch. You also have to watch to make sure it's even as well. You have to develop a feel for it. See how accurate you can measure test blocks or shims.

[Op-Ivy]

I've reamed the IP bushings before. Twice....

I bought a set of them in case I need another size in the future. Really nice quality and they worked very well! It still took a long time to ream though...

I think they were about $90 CAD a year ago.

EDIT: Wow! I see now that the post you refer to where Rwest explains reamers is my rebuild question thread. Amazing how much you learn in a year!

Pic of reamer set.

[Fatmobile]

Here's a pic of the bushing puller I made:

I slide one half of the bolt through the hole, then the other. The nut lines everything up when threaded on.
The green collar is a metal spacer that I put green masking tape on. It keeps the bolt from spreading too far when the little bolt is threaded into the end. The tape keeps it centered in the bushing to be removed.
To remove the bushing I leave the 10mm deep socket onthe small nut and tap the bushing outward,... and the inner bushing inward.
Great info on adjustable reamers,... affordable enough to pay for themselves the first set of bushings. They charged me around $31 to press them in and reem.
I don't have calipers or telescopic gauges though so that's some more dough$$$.
What's the mainshaft size?,.. so I know what reamer to get.

[ahistand]

I'd be a little suprised if the pump shaft actually had any runout. I think that would be pretty rare. Does it look worn at all? Did you mic it to see if it has worn areas where it rides on the pump bushings? The next one I have apart I will check to see if it has runout....i'm curious.

[tawney]

Reamer size: this is the one I ordered: http://www.wttool.com/product-exec/prod ... and_Reamer

I checked it after I got it to see that it would be the correct one for the VE pumps I have, (107, 108, and 109), however, I still haven't used it. It's the same one rwest1 mentioned in his write-up of the process.

Just measured an old pump shaft lying around: diameter is .6683" (16.97mm) at both bushing locations, and it was the same at the non-bearing surface between the bushings. I expected the outer bearing surface, with more timing belt pressure on it, to have worn a measurable amount more than the the inner bearing surface, but as far as I could measure with a micrometer, they were exactly the same.

Steve

[Fatmobile]

A friend brought over some tools she was trying to sell.
Happened to be some adjustable reamers in the nice wooden box. One of them seems to be the right size, just large enough. Says 19/32 - 21/32 and is almost not big enough.
There was also a micrometer; Starrett #230 in the box so I checked the shaft. There was no runout.
There was also this little tool that looked like a very small sledge hammer. Turn the handle and the spring loaded head pops outward. I think it's for checking bores. Put it in the bore and the spring presses the head against the side, tighten the handle and it stays there so you can measure it.
The outside bushing was bored to .0015 bigger than the shaft.
The inner bushing was bored to .0025 bigger than the shaft.
He didn't bore the bushings evenly.
Sounds like it wasn't supposed to be bored anyway,.. so now I have a reamer, bore measuring device and micrometer... oh and there was a fat T-handle in the box.
There is a sleave that goes with the reamer, looks like it's for keeping the reamer alligned.
I might bore a larger center hole in an injection pump head and bolt it to the aluminum body to keep the reamer straight without having to think about it.
I haven't found any good info on how to use an adjustable reamer, other than what was posted here.

[Op-Ivy]

From my experience...

Use lots of lubricating oil.

Make a couple of turns then pull it out and wipe off the shavings. The shavings you get should be very fine, almost like mud because of the oil.

If you have little slivers in the filings, you might be going too fast.

Adjust the reamer once it's inside of the bushings. Don't over tighten it because you may make grooves. Once it's tightened it should be snug inside but easy to get started turning.

When I did it, one reamer became too small after a while and I had to step up a size.

The reamer should be directional, either clockwise or counter clockwise. Going the opposite way will result in bushings that are not smooth on the inside. If it is, then the splines are angled so that one way they will dig in and scrape if they are turned the other way. They need to scrape to make a smooth surface.

It took me a good three or four hours to do it but it turned out absolutly perfect with no shaft play. I reamed them while they were in the pump and just gave it a good cleaning afterwards.

Check the fitting often with the shaft. There will be a point where it will suddenly be able to fit in. This sneaks up on you fast so watch out.


Matt

[jets]

Fat, the small hammer thing you refer to is a telescopic gauge. The way you use these is to position the fixed side in the bore at the pos.you want to measure. The movable side is positioned slightly lower in the bore so that the handle is not vert. Lightly clamp the knurled locking thimble & move the handle in an arc, pivoting on the point where the fixed side contacts the bore. Fully tighten & remove from bore. Using this method will give consistent results, down to .0001" When working to this accuracy the temp has an affect, should be around 68degree far.

[Fatmobile]

I wanted a way to keep the reamer straight.
The plan was to drill out the center hole on a head.
First problem was the metal was too hard to drill,... so I threw it in the woodburner and let it get cherry red and cool down slowly overnight.
That anealed the metal and made it soft enough to drill. Unfortunately I couldn't drill it straight enough with the drill press/vice setup I have.
Should have taken it to the machine shop to begin with but i did learn a little about the head that made machining it easier.
The center can be pressed out:

That made it easy for them to chuck it in the lathe and bore it out to 9/16.
The special tool I made for removing the end plug is/was a 15/16" six point deep socket.
The reamers came with a guide bushing. I centered the guide bushing for the smaller reamer in the shaft bushing spot so it could guide the smaller 9/16" reamer as I reamed the bored hole out a little bigger to fit the guide for the 17mm reamer I'm going to use for the mainshaft bushings.
Well here's a pic of it when done:

This will make reaming the mainshaft bushing a breeze by guiding the end and keeping it straight in the bore.
I might be too worried about reaming the bushings straight but this seemed like a good idea.
I just need some loctite 640 sleeve retainer,... I might have to check to see if that's the right number but it sounds right.