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Any good tips for taking off the top half of the IP?

Posted: Mon Jan 12, 2009 10:48 am
by thegimpster
I had my pump resealed by Andrew and he did a real good job at it and my car runs fine which is nice compared to what it was doing, but I have a leak between the top half and the bottom half of the pumps. I will probably replace the gasket myself but i wondered if there were any good tips in taking the springs off w/o screwing them up or anything else to watch out for. It works great now, i just don't want to open it up and screw anything up.

Posted: Mon Jan 12, 2009 11:05 am
by Golf/Jetta
mark its setting good and make sure your finger aren't in the way when the spring lets go.

Posted: Mon Jan 12, 2009 1:47 pm
by bscutt
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3107325

(copy & paste in URL bar)

has some pics on taking the pump top off

Re: Any good tips for taking off the top half of the IP?

Posted: Mon Jan 12, 2009 2:15 pm
by Quantum TD
thegimpster wrote:I had my pump resealed by Andrew and he did a real good job at it and my car runs fine which is nice compared to what it was doing, but I have a leak between the top half and the bottom half of the pumps. I will probably replace the gasket myself but i wondered if there were any good tips in taking the springs off w/o screwing them up or anything else to watch out for. It works great now, i just don't want to open it up and screw anything up.
If it's been resealed, then it shouldn't be leaking there.

That seal should have been replaced. That seal is one of the first to go if/when internal pressure gets to high. Is your return banjo bolt clogged?

Posted: Mon Jan 12, 2009 2:55 pm
by thegimpster
It shouldn't be. I soaked it in carb cleaner then blew it out, then cleaned it again along w/ the fuel inlet one. but i will check to be sure. I made sure to clean everything 2 times or so before i put it on simply b/c I have heard that any little dirt could cause problems.

Posted: Mon Jan 12, 2009 5:53 pm
by Bubba1
carb cleaner will eat the rubber.

Posted: Mon Jan 12, 2009 6:29 pm
by thegimpster
i cleaned the metal piece, not rubber stuff. I checked the fuel return and it wasn't clogged. I have a steady small stream shooting out of it. The vw place in bloomington said they would do it for $100 so it might be worth it to pay for it.

Posted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 12:19 am
by Fatmobile
You don't need to pay someone $100 to fix that top seal.
The scariest part about removing the top is the springs.
I started a post showing how to put them back on,..
called injection pump springs , or something close to that.
Yours is the early one so it should work great for your spring setup.
Just mark the lever before you pull it off the splines, like mentioned.

The seal for the top has little nubs on it, that keep you from putting it on.
I use small clippers to snip them off and have never had that seal leak.

Edit: Oh yeah, when you pull the top off; fuel will pour out.
I hook a clear line up to the input of the pump and suck on it, then set it low enough to syphen out.
Or you can put a rag around it.

Posted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 3:30 am
by Quantum TD
Fatmobile wrote:
The seal for the top has little nubs on it, that keep you from putting it on.
I use small clippers to snip them off and have never had that seal leak.
That's the one for the TD pump with LDA. The NA seal is just a loop with light bumps on the sides. It fits no problem. If you buy a DGK 126 or 121 kit, it will have both seals. Or, your local diesel shop should have just the single seal. They tend to deal with Turbo pumps more than anything else (used on Cummins 4bt motors), so they rarely use the NA seal.

As noted by Fatmobile, the only hard part is the stupid springs. Marking and removing is pretty easy.

Posted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 4:42 am
by Fatmobile
Yeah, I use the one that is shaped to fit the top,... and snip the nubs.
I didn't know what the other one was for and have never even tried to fit that one in the top.
Glad I saved them though, now that I know where they go.

Posted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 7:18 am
by thegimpster
I will probably try to do it. I just didn't want to mess anything up on it.

Posted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 11:49 am
by libbybapa
I used the smaller seal that fits without modification. Odd that it is leaking. I'm sending the thicker one with the nubs trimmed off as it is a tighter fit that way. I'd certainly be happy to swap it out, but it's more work to pull the pump and ship it than it is to pull the pump top.

Andrew

Posted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 5:09 pm
by thegimpster
Ya, thanks for that. Andrew has been very helpful through the hole thing. I'm not trying to say that his work is shoddy, quite the contrary. He has been great to deal with and had good turn around time. So thanks again.

Posted: Wed Jan 14, 2009 6:15 am
by Golf/Jetta
note if you haven't done this yet. clean the top of the pump making sure no dirt gets inside, use clean fingers. clean clean clean.. dirt at the bottom of the pump is a pain to get rid of. its a dirty job but needs to be clean

Posted: Mon Jan 19, 2009 6:21 pm
by thegimpster
I got the seal replaced today and it running good. It took an hour or so, simply to figure out what i was doing. I drove it around for 30 mins or so and it did fine. There was a chunck out of the old gasket. I will try to post the pics later.