So I am finally to the point of timing the injection pump. Any advice out there on a simple way to do this? I have my timing gauge but it reads in inches and most readings that I've seen are in mm. Has anyone used a gauge like this? I've read the pump timing procedures on this site, my Bentley, and numerous others and they are all a little different. This is what I have been told to do with the gauge I have.
Preload to .118in.
crank engine backwards till gauge stops.
Then zero to .039in.
Then turn engine clockwise to TDC.
Everytime though I come up with .060in. instead of .035-.040in. And the pump won't turn enough to set it to this reading. Aaarrrgghhhh!!!!!!
bc
bc wrote:
crank engine backwards till gauge stops.
Then zero gauge by rotating dial face until the needle points at zero.
Then turn engine clockwise to TDC. Rotate pump until gauge reads .039" and lock it in position.
Everytime though I come up with .060in. instead of .035-.040in. And the pump won't turn enough to set it to this reading. Aaarrrgghhhh!!!!!!
bc
I made some adjustments to your method.
The conversion is 1.00mm/25.4 = .0394", to use an inch indicator with metric dimensions.
which said to zero the gauge to .039in. But then it said to set the large sweep needle to zero. There was my confusion.
Thanks agin for the conversion too. Hopefully I can get it timed now.
bc
To crank the engine backwards I usually put it in high gear and push the car back,..
then grab the driver's side wheel and roll it forward.
This way I can look down the timing hole while it's turning.
'91 Golf gasser converted to a 12mm pump, M-TDI.
'84 1.6TD Rabbit with a VNT-15 turbo, still setup to run on vegetable oil.
'84 GTI with 1.7TD pistons and intercooled.
2003 TDI wagon
2000 TDI Jetta.
Fatmobile...are you serious? Don't you just put a socket and ratchet on the crankshaft bolt and turn it with the car in neutral?
bc
ps...thanks again for all the advice everyone. I think I got it timed now. After suckin' some fuel in to prime the pump (that IS how the home mechanic can do it right?) I'll try startin' her up tomorrow.
You can use a wrench on the crank, but if you're trying to rotate the engine backwards, you may loosen the crank bolt. According to the Bentley, it says to replace it if it's removed.
Before you try cranking the engine by using the key, make sure you rotate the engine a couple revolutions by that wrench on the crankshaft (normal forward engine revolution direction). That's to double check to make sure no valves are hitting pistons. Also, when cranking it to try to start it, floor the accelerator pedal to get those injector lines filled with fuel. It may also help to plug the block heater in for a couple hours first to aid in starting it too.
Everybody else lists their cars here - but not me.
First be sure the cold start lever is in the returned position - off. When you get to the point that the indicator has stopped moving, then zero the gauge. Then rotate forward to TDC. The difference in the measurement of the stroke between the bottom of the stroke and TDC is your timing measurement. The "zero to 0.039" doesn't make sense and raises routine questions on this forum.
As mentioned in that how-to, if you are consistently getting a reading of 0.060" and cannot rotate the pump far enough to get to the proper reading (and your cold start is in), then you are off a tooth or two at the pump. If you mess with the timing belt, be sure that the crank to cam timing is spot on or pistons can hit valves. Also be sure to rotate a couple turns by hand to make sure nothing is hitting prior to using the starter.
thanks libby...very helpful web link. Now I know what fatmobile meant about rotating the engine. I pictured rolling the van all over the place trying to find TDC.
Oh that's right, this is a vanagon.
I'm going to move this over the the vanagon forum.
'91 Golf gasser converted to a 12mm pump, M-TDI.
'84 1.6TD Rabbit with a VNT-15 turbo, still setup to run on vegetable oil.
'84 GTI with 1.7TD pistons and intercooled.
2003 TDI wagon
2000 TDI Jetta.
SO I think I got my vanagon timed. But I don't think there's any fuel in the filter or pump. I read the post to suck the fuel from the return barb. Would I attach a hose on the tank side of the return fitting? Then I would be pulling fuel through the filter, pump and injectors right? Is this the best way to prime the pump? SO far it won't start.
bc
The idea is to draw fuel through the filter and pump.
I think if you put a vacuum on one of the barbs for the little return lines between the injectors;
you might be pulling fuel from the tank, through the return line.
I disconnect the 1/4" fuel line from the "OUT" bolt barb,
and put a clear piece of tubing on it.
'91 Golf gasser converted to a 12mm pump, M-TDI.
'84 1.6TD Rabbit with a VNT-15 turbo, still setup to run on vegetable oil.
'84 GTI with 1.7TD pistons and intercooled.
2003 TDI wagon
2000 TDI Jetta.
So would I use a Hoover or a Dirt Devil? (A little internet humor for you.)
The fuel line on the return bolt between the pump and the tank is like this semi hard plastic material that runs to the flexi line at the tank. If I disconnect it I would have to cut it just to get it off the barb fitting, which means I would probably have to replace the whole run of line. I'm pretty sure it is the original fuel line from 1983. This van only has 79000 on it. Maybe I should replace it anyway? I plan on running this van on bio.
Thanks again for the tips.
bc
Sounds like a good time to replace that line.
I've had good luck with clear vinyl tubing,..
but I like the blue urethane from motorcycle shops.
'91 Golf gasser converted to a 12mm pump, M-TDI.
'84 1.6TD Rabbit with a VNT-15 turbo, still setup to run on vegetable oil.
'84 GTI with 1.7TD pistons and intercooled.
2003 TDI wagon
2000 TDI Jetta.
Yeha, I prob should replace it. I also talked to a mechanic and he said whatt he does is bleed the filter by opening the vent screw on top and cranking till just fuel comes out. Then crack two injector lines and crank till there's fuel. Then do the other two. So I'll give that a shot too.
hope to be driving soon!
bc
So I still can't get my vanagon to fire. I'm pretty sure the timing is right all around. With vinyl hose going from the pump to the tank I can see air bubbles. I also have clear line between the pump and injectir #1, so I can see the fuel in it too. There are no air bubbles in that line. So I'm assuming the system is purged of air. Question is, shouldn't the engine fire at this point? Or atleast try? It just keeps crankin till the battery is dead. Any tips?
bc
Also, no block heater on this baby to warm it up.
