Injector Issue
Moderator: Fatmobile
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- Diesel Freak
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Injector Issue
So I've been driving around making long trips and the car is running nice. However....
I saw a leak under the car after i parked it and noticed that it was fuel. Then I started the car and saw that the 3rd injector is spraying fuel everywhere from the top injection line connection.
What could have caused this?
And, would it be the injector or the injection line... Just curious... I will post my troubleshooting this weekend.
I think it could just be a loose connection.... but I dunno
Any comments / ideas welcome.
Thanks
I saw a leak under the car after i parked it and noticed that it was fuel. Then I started the car and saw that the 3rd injector is spraying fuel everywhere from the top injection line connection.
What could have caused this?
And, would it be the injector or the injection line... Just curious... I will post my troubleshooting this weekend.
I think it could just be a loose connection.... but I dunno
Any comments / ideas welcome.
Thanks
1980 VW Rabbit 1.5L NA
1997 F-250 7.3L Turbo Diesel
1997 F-250 7.3L Turbo Diesel
If you have spray all over, it could be a badly seated injector line, a cracked line, or a loose nut. The absolute critical method to install these lines is to push the injector line down onto the injector (or valve on the IP) and then finger tighten the nut, then final tighten with a wrench. If you simply start the nut on the injector or IP then don't press the line to the injector or IP and tighten the line, you could be using the nut to pull the injector line down seated at an incorrect installation angle. The line could then leak, leading to slight tightening, to lead to more and more. Then, in the end, you basically twisted off the head of the injector line because of over tightening. How do I know this? I did it - only once though!
My method of installing injector lines is to install all lines (both ends) just started. Then, I press each injector line to it's injector or IP fitting then finger tighten the nut snug. After all 8 ends are done, I then take a wrench and just snug up the nut a little more, while pressing the injector line towards the fitting. I do not tighten the nuts down very tight at all. If after I run the car and a line leaks, I just snug up the nut ever so slightly a little more. With this method, I do not have leaky injector lines. After this is done, loosen the line holding clips and let the lines relax to a natural state, then tighten the holding clips again.
For your case, I would remove the nut and inspect the end of the injector line for a crack. If none exists, install lines as I dictate above.
My method of installing injector lines is to install all lines (both ends) just started. Then, I press each injector line to it's injector or IP fitting then finger tighten the nut snug. After all 8 ends are done, I then take a wrench and just snug up the nut a little more, while pressing the injector line towards the fitting. I do not tighten the nuts down very tight at all. If after I run the car and a line leaks, I just snug up the nut ever so slightly a little more. With this method, I do not have leaky injector lines. After this is done, loosen the line holding clips and let the lines relax to a natural state, then tighten the holding clips again.
For your case, I would remove the nut and inspect the end of the injector line for a crack. If none exists, install lines as I dictate above.
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- Hillbilly Tuner
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I P lines.
IMHO it sounds like a cracked line, Did you relieve tension on lines ? and did you install Rubber dampers ?
hagar.
hagar.
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- Diesel Freak
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Well I finally got around to looking into the issue. It was a 10 min fix (because I had an extra set of injection lines)
The 3rd injection line was sheared off... It was most likely due to the vibrations from the rubber (in the clamp) breaking apart.
Maybe had something to do with the bad engine mounts??
The 3rd injection line was sheared off... It was most likely due to the vibrations from the rubber (in the clamp) breaking apart.
Maybe had something to do with the bad engine mounts??
1980 VW Rabbit 1.5L NA
1997 F-250 7.3L Turbo Diesel
1997 F-250 7.3L Turbo Diesel
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- Turbo Charger
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Re: I P lines.
Anytime you remove the lines or set timing or remove & reinstall the injection pump, you need ot releive the tension on the lines by loosening all 8 connections slightly, shaping (bending) the lines so there is no "cocking" or "side-loading" then retighten them.hagar wrote:IMHO it sounds like a cracked line, Did you relieve tension on lines ? and did you install Rubber dampers ?
hagar.
This is a very important step because you dont want to be on the side of the road on a trip with one cylinder inop and fuel spraying everywhere. The normal vibration of the diesel and the high pressure inside them make this a very important step.
I guess I should also mention all the clamps should be on the line also. The ones with the little rubber bushings that seperate and support the injection pump lines.
Richard
85 Jetta TD
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ATRA Certified in Rebuilding, Diagnosing & Installing Transmissions
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Re: I P lines.
X2CoolAirVw wrote:Anytime you remove the lines or set timing or remove & reinstall the injection pump, you need ot releive the tension on the lines by loosening all 8 connections slightly, shaping (bending) the lines so there is no "cocking" or "side-loading" then retighten them.
Glad you got it fixed and had a spare line set. Also want to mention that a loose injector pump could also cause this issue, however, it typically breaks the #2 injector line. Been there done that one too. When you next go under the hood, double check to make sure that your IP mounting bolts are all tight.
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- Diesel Freak
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Anytime you remove the lines or set timing or remove & reinstall the injection pump, you need ot releive the tension on the lines by loosening all 8 connections slightly, shaping (bending) the lines so there is no "cocking" or "side-loading" then retighten them.
What does no cocking or side-loading mean?
[/quote]
What does no cocking or side-loading mean?
[/quote]
1980 VW Rabbit 1.5L NA
1997 F-250 7.3L Turbo Diesel
1997 F-250 7.3L Turbo Diesel
If you move the IP (such as timing the engine) or anything like that, you need to loosen the injector lines (all 8 connections) and re-seat the injector lines so that there isn't any tension (or twisting motion) left on the lines. Then you loosen the two clips with the rubber pieces in them holding the lines together and do the same with this. By doing this, you are relaxing the injector lines so that there isn't any undue pressure on the lines exerted by the other adjustments you made.
Hope this is clear enough.
Hope this is clear enough.
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- Global Moderator
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Overtightening lines can ruin the ends too.
I snug them up,... doesn't usually take much to seal them
and tighten them more if they leak.
I snug them up,... doesn't usually take much to seal them
and tighten them more if they leak.
'91 Golf gasser converted to a 12mm pump, M-TDI.
'84 1.6TD Rabbit with a VNT-15 turbo, still setup to run on vegetable oil.
'84 GTI with 1.7TD pistons and intercooled.
2003 TDI wagon
2000 TDI Jetta.
'84 1.6TD Rabbit with a VNT-15 turbo, still setup to run on vegetable oil.
'84 GTI with 1.7TD pistons and intercooled.
2003 TDI wagon
2000 TDI Jetta.
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- Turbo Charger
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18 foot pounds is what it calls for and that's not a lot.
99 TDI Jetta (Z1 engine code)
94 Grand Caravan
89 Dodge Gold Stream B class
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94 Grand Caravan
89 Dodge Gold Stream B class
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