AFTERMARKET A/C BRACKETRY......................

Technical questions and answers concerning all models of VW diesel vehicles.

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1RED-RYDER1
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AFTERMARKET A/C BRACKETRY......................

Post by 1RED-RYDER1 »

been unable to locate a factory a/c setup for my 81 caddy. gonna look at
modifying the present compressor and alternator.

some of the kubota diesel engines and possibly some of the foreign cars have very small alternators.

HAS ANYONE EVER EXPLORED REPLACING THE FACTORY ALTERNATOR WITH A SMALLER UNIT?

my initial concern matching the pulleys of the compressor and the alternator.

YES, I'M AWARE I MUST CONSIDER THE ALTERNATOR OUTPUT!

[the present compressor is driven from the crank pulley, and mounted w/ a crude multi-fit bracketry FIRST! the alternator is driven by the two-grooved a/c compressor. AS WE WELL KNOW THERE IS NOT ALOT OF EXCESS ROOM FOR THE ALTERNATOR AND A/C COMPRESSOR!]

MY CONCERN IF I LOSE THE A/C COMPRESOR, I ALSO LOSE THE ALTERNATOR AND MORE IMPORTANTLY THE WATER PUMP!

ANY IDEAS? when i overcome this i'll post pictures!

red ryder
81 diesel caddy
93 volvo 240
68 triumph T120R
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Post by Quantum TD »

With the exception of a working compressor (a MK2 one will work just fine), I should have everything you need for your swap. Hard to ship it all though.

Seems odd that you can't find all the pieces.

It should be just plug an play on an 81 truck. I don't think that there are any wiring issues. Could be wrong though...
Fatmobile
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Post by Fatmobile »

So did you start with a non-AC setup or a broken AC bracket?
Basically wondering why it's being replaced.
'91 Golf gasser converted to a 12mm pump, M-TDI.
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'84 GTI with 1.7TD pistons and intercooled.
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1RED-RYDER1
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after-market A/C bracketry.................

Post by 1RED-RYDER1 »

the aftermarket bracketry is a RUBE GOLDBERG arrangement!

I'VE NEVER BEEN ABLE TO MAINTAIN CORRECT TENSION.

i've assembled and dis-assembled the compressor from the 'bracketry numerous times' trying to find the key to alignment and tension issues.

positioning of SANKYO SD-507 compressor is by 2 ears on the compressor to the bracketry.......tension for the belt from the crank to the compressor, is by 2....... 1/4 x 1 x 4 slotted 'bars'. the compressor clutch has the usual two-groove pulley.

TENSION to the alternator, FROM THE COMPRESSOR CLUTCH is gained by 'the usual slotted bar'.

MY CONCERN 'LOSE' THE COMPRESSOR ...I'VE LOST THE WATER PUMP---- i figger i can 'limp-home' w/o an alternator! other than the fuel shutoff solenoid the battery is not necessarily needed?

does this arrangement make sense?

my problem is the close-quarters do NOT allow a shorter belt to be
installed on either unit.

my first thought------ use one belt PLUS a idler tension device.

second thought-----a double-groove pulley at the crank. [ one belt for the water pump and alternator/ one belt for the compressor] which SHOULD allow the compressor to be eliminated, SHOULD/IF/WHEN the compressor FAILS!

BACK-UP-PLAN....PERMANENT TOW BAR MOUNTS, KNOCK-DOWN-TOWBAR IN THE BED!

red ryder
81 diesel caddy
93 volvo 240
68 triumph T120R
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VWCaddy
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Post by VWCaddy »

I had a problem with the A/C and belt tension on my old '81 until I found and fixed the problem as described below:
- http://www.4crawler.com/Diesel/CheapTri ... #ACbracket
'82 VW Caddy, 1.9D engine, FN tranny w/ Quaife, Missing LinkZ shift linkage
82vdub
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Post by 82vdub »

My 82 Rabbit with AC has the belt that runs the compressor, then a belt from the compressor to the alternator. I've also thought of eliminating this arrangement as if the AC belt gives up the ghost, then I loose everything as you mention. I will say that in the last 3-4 times I've needed to replace a belt, it's the alternator belt that's worn and needs replacement, not the AC belt. Unfortunately, to replace the alternator belt, you have to remove the AC belt, and that's the one that's really tough to get the tension set.

I have a short piece of wood that I use with a floor jack to tension the AC compressor. I have this in the trunk of the car, along with a set of spare belts. On my honeymoon 5 years ago, I did have to spend the 2 hours changing belts in the parking lot as the alternator belt was just about done (only the top rib remained in a section of the belt. A minor inconvience, at least in my mind. I use thread locker on the AC compressor bolts that are closest to the radiator. I've had those disappear just like VW Caddy has.

Based on my past experience, I believe that the AC belt outlasts the alternator belt, and is not the weak link in this situation. If you're worried that keeping a set of belts and tools in the car and changing all your belts every 3-4 years to make sure they are ok is too much, you can try carrying a shorter belt to go around the crank and water pump pully (and tools) to use if you absolutely need to. I've also thought of ways of limping the car places if I needed to, and I've come up with the idea of shoe strings. Thank God I have not had to test my idea, but in a pinch, I bet your shoestrings tied together and wrapped around the crank and water pump pully (as tightly as possible) would spin the water pump enough to get you somewhere. Maybe not across the country, but this idea should allow you to get somewhere.
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