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Posted: Thu Sep 24, 2009 12:33 pm
by Fatmobile
I got it going down the road,.. of course it started to rain so I had to fix the windshield wipers.
Did I mention this '79 came from the Old Volks Home, I think it's in northern California.
It was slippery out but this is how a turbo should act. Why wait until you get to 2000 RPM?
It maxes out at 12psi with it floored and at maximum RPM. I turned in the fuel screw and adjusted the linkage to push farther but that's what it gives.
There are other adjustments like reducing spring pressure against the boost can.
Shockingly fast. First Rabbit diesel I've ever driven that could get a second gear scratch, without really trying. OK, it was more of a chirp and it's wet out but they broke loose. :D
..aaand here's a picture:
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Posted: Thu Sep 24, 2009 10:53 pm
by rabbit_man
That's sweet!! Glad to hear it's working.

What size of exhaust do you have?
Do you know if the vanes are opening all the way?

Posted: Fri Sep 25, 2009 1:39 am
by Fatmobile
He bought a 2.25 techtonics exhaust, with Borla and I built a 2.25" downpipe for it.
I haven't listened to anyone else drive it but I can't here the turbo from the driver's seat. :cry:
I don't know what the vane control is doing.
I want to put a camera down there and drive it to see, I don't have a position sender for it.

The boost can build:
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The spring is a valve spring, the spring seat is from a timing belt cover on,... this one was from a Fox.It needs to be ground down enough to fit inside the can mount bracket:
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Exhaust studs didn't need to be much longer:
Part# : X2813118

I've always thought the Rabbit exhaust should have another hanger, back where it bends before the axle:
"possible future image
So I installed one on this fine exhaust.

Posted: Sat Sep 26, 2009 1:55 am
by rabbit_man
Weird that your turbo is quiet, I got a 2.25" DP and 2.5" with no muffler all the way back and it's loud. I can give it a blip in neutral and easily hear it wind up some :P . But the lack of boost is very depressing :cry:

Posted: Mon Oct 05, 2009 11:28 pm
by Josh
Maybe the VNT is nicely worn in, and the exhaust note overpowers the typical squeal... or Fat has listened to a few too many loud concerts, loud engines, and loudmouths over the years!

I think a feisty 1.6 under the hood is loud enough to cause hearing damage if you're exposed for enough time! I've always been a loud noise wimp tho, and would plug my ears in the back seat of a car if the radio is on. I often wear earmuffs when wrenching.

Posted: Tue Oct 06, 2009 12:17 am
by Fatmobile
He took it home yesterday.
It's a brand new 2.25" TT exhaust with resonator and Borla muffler.
Far from a 2.5" with no muffler.
I think it might be too much, maybe sell the muffler and replace it with pipe and a turned down tip.

I have a 2.5" TT for my 1.5 VNT project car
I think 2.25 is enough for the 1.5 but I don't have a 2.25 right now and the the 2.5 exhaust needs to be built/mounted for the 1.7TD project eventually anyway.

Posted: Thu Oct 22, 2009 1:40 am
by Fatmobile
The turbo drain was built using a 5/8" compression fitting elbow:
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NAPA part # 7405 X10
In the car:


For the tubing I used a piece of metal AC tubing from a Rabbit, it had a slight bend that worked great,..
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and a piece of silicone hose. NAPA Part# H504

The plastic hose on the end is just checking the diameter of the pipe and how well 5/8" hose fits.

Posted: Fri Oct 01, 2010 1:16 pm
by punkvideo81
Did you ever get to shooting a drive by video of this car in action?

Posted: Fri Oct 01, 2010 6:55 pm
by Fatmobile
No, I don't have a video camera.
Joe is taking another trip out west,
His master cylinder went out in southern Cali,
but looks like it is back together and on the road tomorrow.

Posted: Wed Dec 29, 2010 10:52 am
by ibizz
it works?

im trying to make similar work

Posted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 1:44 am
by Fatmobile
The controller seemed like it was binding,
sticking open occasionally.
I figured the controller was pushing the vane lever in toward the turbo a little hard and it was having a hard time moving outward so it could move down.
So I tried using a bent lever instead of straight,.. that didn't work.
Bound up more.

I also changed the heim joint on the end of the boost can rod.
There was no need to swivel.
It holds the lever more solid, straight.

So I have the controller tied at full boost.
I always thought the boost would stay to a safe level but I've hit 30psi a couple times.
No damage yet but I'll be putting a straight lever back on and hooking the boost line back up to the can soon.
I probably run the lever from a manual control on the dash,
instead of off the accelerator lever.
The will allow me to feel how the vanes are working and adjust boost from inside the car.

Posted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 12:09 pm
by ibizz
engine as running smooth ?

no problems?

how can i get tech info about my engine ?

with the number that is in head ?

Posted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 6:03 pm
by Fatmobile
Worst problem with it now is blowby.
It's the first engine I rebuilt,.. and I didn't break it in right, I took it real easy on it.
It only has about 20,000 miles on it at the most.
It has always used some oil and had too much blowby.
The pistons are new so I'll have to rering it.

Posted: Fri Dec 31, 2010 10:21 am
by ibizz
dificult to control vnt ?

Re: Putting a VNT 15 on a Rabbit

Posted: Mon Sep 12, 2011 10:41 pm
by Fatmobile
I replaced the loose 1.5 with a 1.6 and am breaking it in.
The controller is working great.
While Joe's is still conected to the accelerator peddle, my new setup has a knob on the dash that allows me to change the vane position while driving,.. with boost still backing it off as it rises.
I haven't had much chance to work with it, always reving and letting off while breaking it in, but it does keep it from over boosting, while still reaching 18psi.
EGTs do get up to 1200 pretty easy, seems a little high,