1.6d engine weight

esox · Post by **esox** » Wed Oct 21, 2009 3:18 pm

I am fixing a 81 caddy, and buying an 84 rabbit for parts. Im going to strip the rabbit of most of its goodies, and leave it a rolling shell to be scrapped.

I want to take the engine out of the rabbit (it had a timing belt break, crunched valves), but the only storage/shop space I have available is in a basement. If i disassemble the engine would it be managable to move it down stairs (the block)?

dieselsnowmobile · Post by **dieselsnowmobile** » Wed Oct 21, 2009 4:57 pm

I searched around forums and found this:

Shipping Weights:

1-Block 80 lbs
2-Head 35 lbs
3-Crank 38 lbs
4-Rods 6 lbs
5-Pistons 8 lbs
6-Oil Pump 5 lbs
7-Oil Pan & Valve Cover 8 lbs
8-Gasket Set & Bearings 3 lbs

Total Weight For Kit 183 lbs

Post by **Fatmobile** » Wed Oct 21, 2009 5:07 pm

If you strip the rods and crank out, it's pretty easy for one person to move down stairs.
With the pistons, crank and head it's too heavy for me to do it,.. safely.

rs899 · Post by **rs899** » Thu Oct 22, 2009 5:58 am

Agree- the naked block really isn't that bad at all to move around once you pick it up. Everything else is pretty light. You should be able to manage it.

Rick

vwtyp133 · Post by **vwtyp133** » Thu Oct 22, 2009 7:28 am

Another approach is to load the whole engine onto a dolly/hand truck/appliance dolly, and take it down the stairs that way, fairly easily, even on a 500-600lb V8. Bringing a big motor back up with a dolly at a later date, takes more muscle of course, but that's what friends & beer are for! Our little inline 4s are a piece of cake with a hand truck: less than 250lbs complete, and all weight down low. Strap 'em to the dolly if it seems unstable.

Once at the intended storage area, it seems like I have made probably a dozen cheap rectangular 'engine dollies' from 2x4s/2x6s/4x4s, depending on the weight to be stored, and whatever swivel casters Harbor Freight has on sale at the time. Sitting upright, with the pan rails loaded on the wood frame, spare engines don't take up a lot of valuable room that way (vs. leaving them on engine stands! Ugh!), if the bottom shelf of a storage shelving unit is located just high enough for an engine/dolly to roll underneath. Fewer stubbed toes!

Also easy to keep finished or semi-finished assemblies clean that way, wrapped in trash bags (or monster leaf bags?) & taped shut. Ditto for keeping dirty engines from messing up a workplace/storage room. For me the biggest issue is remembering to label every bagged engine or trans as to its type/origin/condition/state of repair, so that it's easily accessed when needed, but otherwise remains securely wrapped.

J.R.
SoCal