My first VE pump strip down

[DervConvert]

Rather than tagging the odd question onto other people's threads I thought I'd best start my own as I think I'll be needing some hand-holding along the way and being an inquisitive sort of chap I will bound to have lots of questions for you experts to answer.

The pump in question has the Bosch part number 0 460 494 342 which I'm told is off a PSA engined Puegeot. It has an LDA, a stop solenoid and some form of electrovalve attached where the timing cover would be, including a small bore feed pipe taken from a port between the pressure valve and the fuel intake (directly over the governor screw/shaft).

Before I begin and after I've marked/noted relevant positions, should I remove any of the adjusters first? ie. Does the full-load screw interfere with governor lever removal? What about the governor shaft, or the idle and fast idle screws etc?

All advice and suggestions welcome.

[hagar]

DervConvert : starting your own thread , is the way to go IMHO.

You are going to get a lot of HELP ("Hits") , why ? on a VW Diesel nothing but nothing is more of a challenge than the VE BOSCH Injection systems.. AND nothing is more FUN.

All the BOSCH VE pumps are similar . I wish you luck and I shall put you on my "Must read list".

hagar.

[DervConvert]

Thank you Hagar, I have spent several years (not continuous, you understand but it takes a long time for something so complex to click into place in my thick head) reading all I could about these pumps (and diesel engines) because they ARE FUN! Far more fun than petrol (gassers, you call them?) engines. From the moment I made my first "tweak" I was hooked. To adjust them, no special skills or tools are needed, no extra parts required, just a mediocum of common sense and patience to read, read and read some more and great gains can be had!

And when I thought I had read it all, I find Hagar's Saga - tweaking his pump for "smileage". That is, SUPER ECONOMY, not just any old economy. I am astounded at how lean a diesel engine car run but I am not surprised, it is logical after all.

But getting back to my question, do I need to remove all parts or just those that have seals and/or o-rings? I read one thread where the poster had difficulty refitting the governor cover because of pressure exerted on the governor lever assembly by an externally adjustable screw.

[Fatmobile]

You have an oddball pump,.. at least I don't see any of those around here.
A picture might help.
...but I'd say start at the top.
With the goal of removing the top and looking inside.
Notice the line scribbed across the top of the stud sticking up through accelerator lever. That stud is splined to the lever and should be put back the way you found it.
Notice the springs.
Before you pull the top; practice removing the springs and putting them back on.
Once springs are off you can get to the bolts holding the lid on.
Tap the stud/shaft downward through the cap as you lift it.
The max fuel screw won't bother you when you are removing the lid,... but it will get in the way when you go to put it back on,.. if you don't uncrew it. Once the top is off you'll see what it hits, the lever that rests against it.

[DervConvert]

Hello Fatmobile,

I've read many of your posts and found them informative and interesting, thank you.

You are correct if by oddball you mean not found on VW's, it's supposedly off a Peugeot though I bought it to practice on as it's very similar to the one on my Citroen which I want to reseal before tuning.



I'm waiting on the repair kits before I proceed.

[MPalm]

I have a Peugeot with a IP that looks like yours except the small fuel pipe. Where does the wires go from it?

[DervConvert]

Hi MPalm, one wire was connected to the Solenoid attached to the timing device and I know from experience another should have been connected to the fuel-stop solenoid. On my Citroen, I also have a TPS and immobiliser wiring (and possible a timing control device though I haven't confirmed this yet).

There is a connector in the cable bracket that connects to a loom plug which in turn connects to the ECU.

[DervConvert]

After careful marking, measuring, note and photo taking the lever assemblies and adjuster screws have been removed ready for lifting the governor cover.

I have already found one weeping seal on the cold-start fast-idle shaft and the foul smelling "fuel" that drained out makes me think it was run on WVO meaning a rebuild is needed on this pump.

[DervConvert]

Erm, I've hit a snag and need some advice

The electrovalve device attached to the timing housing - one of the Torx bolts is playing hard to get and won't budge. I put a long bar on it but the bit slips out under force. I tried an impact driver but it's just chewing metal.

[Fatmobile]

I usually smack the top of the bolt with a hammer. Sometimes helps to smack a partially stripped torx/hex bolt back into shape too.
Or if I can get to the part the bolt threads into I'll smack that.
An impact driver didn't even work! Maybe a direct smack with a hammer might loosen it up.

[libbybapa]

Are you planning on using that pump on a VW? If so, then you will need to get an early AAZ pump sprocket as it is the only one that has the correct offset for that size/length shaft. The peugot sprocket is not the correct number of teeth or diameter and the VW 1.6 sprocket is not the correct offset for the long nose pump. The later AAZ and TDI sprockets will not work either as they are for the larger shaft.

WRT the stuck bolt, get a 12pt socket that is just slightly smaller than the heat of the bolt and hammer it on. It will twist the bolt out easily.

[DervConvert]

Thanks for the tips though the bolt head is recessed and only 1/4 of it is open to attack so there's no chance of getting an outer grip on it, it has to be got at from the deteriorating T30 centre. It's threaded into an open and there's no sign of corrosion anywhere so why it's not giving up to an impact driver I don't know.

I left it soaking in penetrating oil overnight and will have another go at it later.

Andrew, no I have no plans for this pump other than for educational purposes but it would be a bonus to sell it as refurbished when I'm finished

[surfcam]

A last chance effort before drilling and dremelling. Find a nut that will fit over the chewed up bolt rather snug. Then weld it. Some heat would probably help when you try to turn the nut. The down side is you have to clean the pump out real good so it doesn't catch fire or blow up.

[DervConvert]

Fourth attempt at replying - previous ones just failed with no connection

Thanks for all the advice and suggestions...

The bolt is now free but ruined so I need a new one. I removed the other bolt and pivoted the whole unti off the timing housing around the seized bolt and as it moved (anti-clockwise) I put the impact driver to it again and it came loose.

Since then, I've removed the delivery valves and distributor head so it's all looking good so far.

In addition, I took Hagar's advice (again, that man knows things!) and used an ordinary 6-point socket with cotter insert to loosen the triangular bolts holding the governor levers. Excellent tip

[hagar]

DervConvert : Nice pump , but I agree with Andrew it is not VW . BUT does it matter ? did you not say it was a way to get your feet wet ?

I did not look in to that type yet , but I shall read my lips . .It may be a Mainshaft with Ball Bearing , IMHO a way way better way to go than the two Bushing type..

There are special tools made ,that will do that stubborn Torx screw , works on the cam principle..

Please post ALL the numbers on pump.

hagar.

PS : all my impact sockets are 6 point and very strong.