Head re-torque info

TeamSpatula · Post by **TeamSpatula** » Mon Apr 28, 2008 2:57 pm

Well, weekend came and went...

last stupid question - is it ok to do this with the engine hot, or does it need to cool down over night? I know with the aircooleds you have to let things cool down before adjusting the valves or anything like that...
thanks,

TomA · Post by **TomA** » Tue Apr 29, 2008 9:43 pm

I just did a headgasket job. I have the 12mm stretch bolts.

First tighten head bolts in numbered sequence to

29 ft lbs.

Second retighten in numbered sequence to

43 ft lbs

Finally make each head bolt 180 deg. tighter 2 1\4 turns ok

Run engine until the cooling fan comes on and tighten in the same order 1/4 turn (90 degrees)

by this time they are getting pretty darn tight and I wondered if they would break.
I had one bolt that was looser than the rest

At about 1000 miles retighten the bolts turning the bolts in sequence 1/4 turn WITHOUT loosening them first.
This is done 1 bolt at a time in proper sequence, without interuption. THis can be done with the engine warm or cold.

I think when I do my 1000 mi tighten I will use a torque wrench in case I run in to any that are a little loose I will exceed that 1/4 turn if need be.

Good luck,

Tom

TeamSpatula · Post by **TeamSpatula** » Wed Apr 30, 2008 9:42 am

Well, thanks to all the advice, it's done!

I have an early (February 1981) block, with the 11mm bolts and the 10 mm hex head. All told, it was done in less than an hour...I was surprised at the effort needed to loosen the bolts that 30 degrees before torquing - had to break out the cheater bar, but everything seemed to go well...fingers crossed...
and thanks!

Greenmachine · Post by **Greenmachine** » Wed Apr 30, 2008 1:33 pm

Regarding the re-torque interval:

I just threw a new gasket on my rebuild, Erling brand from Germany.

The instructions that come with it say re-torque at 1,000 km (625 miles).

I knew I had abetter reason for thinking so than the stupid Haynes manual.

82vdub · Post by **82vdub** » Wed Apr 30, 2008 3:43 pm

My take on this is:

1000 km
1000 mi
1500 mi
500 mi

...................

Basically, after a few miles or maybe a month of driving it, retorque. The milage number isn't a magical number.

ok, I'm done whining now.

Greenmachine · Post by **Greenmachine** » Thu May 01, 2008 12:56 pm

82 I agree, not a magic number, but important. If it leaks before 1,500 miles a guy would get to wishing he did it at 625 miles.

Once it gets wet, you can stop seepage but I doubt you can ever achieve the same level of seal.

backwoods · Post by **backwoods** » Thu May 01, 2008 7:44 pm

This is not in any manual, but seems to be working. I did this on a Massey Ferguson tractor (Perkins diesel, sheet copper head gasket) to avoid retorque because getting to the head is a minor nightmare, and did it on my 81 Rabbit with 11mm headbolts because I knew I'd get busy and not get to it in time. If you have time now, but might not get to the retorque soon, it might help reduce the risk of a leak.

I did retorque the Rabbit, but not until 3-4K, and had zero issues up to then. The bolts ended up in the exact same position, within my ability to observe, as before I backed them off for the retorque. I never did retorque the tractor and it has been heavily used for 3 years not a lick of trouble.

1.) Torque to specification.

2.) Retorque after 2 or more hours without backing off the bolts, some will budge a bit & some not.

3.) Retorque without backing off the bolts after another 6 or more hours. If only one or two budge a tiny bit, do the proper back-off and retorque. If several budge more than a few degrees, wait another 6 or more hours then do the back-off & retorque.

The Rabbit budged a little after the first wait then barely budged after the second wait (overnight). The tractor needed the second long wait.

A1-2-A3 · Post by **A1-2-A3** » Thu May 29, 2008 10:17 pm

Ok I was reading this thread and found a couple things wrong with the 11mm torque you dont just go up to 66ft-lbs you go in stages up to 66. Also you never back off you run till hot and retorque 66 and then run till 1000kms and then retorque 66 never back off. I talked to Jack on this and thats what he said the old way is back off, he said thats not the right way to do it so thats gospel to me.
Also dont even put the damn bolts in unless you want to gamble a cracked block. But thats up to you guys, many will say that the original bolts are the end and be all cause vw this and that, well why did they last 1/2 a year on the 1.6 and why did they make 12mm bolts? I love working on a hyundai accent that runs like a kitten.