Interesting problem

[jettaman8691]

Rebuilt my turbo pump and installed it last week. Replaced the line from the tank to the filter, from the filter to the pump, and from the pump to the tank with 1/4" ID clear hose. Had a time getting all the connections to seal to keep out the bubbles; still having a tiny issue on the line from the tank to the filter. When the car sits for a bit, a small bubble forms in the line from the backflow valve between the filter and pump. Also see a small bubble form on the tank-side of the return line. Will get them eventually, but the car does run sweet now, just the same.
Whilst getting the fittings from the "out" bolt tight, I had a bit of diesel drip on the top of the shut-off selenoid. Sure enough, driving down the street the other night, the car just died. The diesel evidently ate through the hard plastic of the selenoid and allowed it to short out. Thankfully had a spare old pump around to rob of its' valves.
Glad it didn't happen on top of the pass in the middle of the night, in a snowstorm. Whew!

[the vegenator]

Regarding the fuel lines... it's always a good idea to put a length of clear vinyl before the injection pump, but maybe not for replacing all the lines. I just found this little bit of info:

"Vinyl tubing is a clear flexible tubing providing an economical means of fluid transfer in a variety of applications. Intermittent exposure to hydrocarbons, such as gasoline, kerosene, diesel fuel, etc. will cause premature hardening and failure of the tubing."
http://www.envisupply.com/equipment/tubing.html

Hose clamps and clear vinyl tubing don't provide proper seals... If you want to keep the vinyl tubing for the time being AND get good air-tight seals, then you can stick each end of the vinyl tubing through an inch length of 3/8 rubber fuel line before connecting to each barb. Haven't tried it but it makes sense to me...

[jettaman8691]

Thank you very, very much. I will be making a change, and soon. The last thing I need is to have fuel all over the road, like a mini Valdez. Blessing to you.

[82vdub]

My first thought when it was mentioned that vinyl tubing was used from fromt to back is the lack of wall strength with vinyl tubing. The slightest restriction in the long run from the tank to the front of the car could have the vinyl tubing collapse, making the problem worse.

[Fatmobile]

Vinyl does get hard but it takes about a year.
If I was going to run new fuel line under the car and was going to use plastic,..
I'd grab some air brake line,.. the stuff for tractor/trailers.

[jettaman8691]

I wondered about the vinyl and its' survivability with diesel, but figured it would work for a while, in case I needed to replace it later. My goal was to eliminate the water trap. I do not see a need for it in my area, and besides, I use a diesel additive which is supposed to absorb water (learning more about those, too).
In the engine compartment the fuel hoses became kind of a conglomeration of patching and clamps, missing the back flow valve. It was just so easy, and relatively cheap to use the clear vinyl (1/4" ID). As I was having the pump rebuilt anyway, it seemed like a good time to do it.
For a back flow valve I am using one made of brass bought from the House of Hose in Spokane. It is a heck of a lot easier to get the vinyl hose on the dang nipples, too. Had a problem with clamping, but seems okay now. I see a very, very few tiny bubble in the line from the tank to the fuel filter. When I shut down, though, a bubble will develop in the hose between the back flow valve and the pump, and from the pump to the return line to the tank. Other than that, works great. I do need to replace the under-car lines, though, with something more substantial.
Now clamping is a real issue. What should a person use with the hard lines to ensure a solid seal? And what should you use with the clear vinyl? I have used the notched clamps and the small stainless ones too. Both will leak unless I tighten the living daylights out of them.

[the vegenator]

I'm about to replace my lines between water separator and filter with a short length of rubber, then a five foot length of 5/16 steel line, then rubber to the filter. I'll use clear between filter and pump.

Now clamping is a real issue. What should a person use with the hard lines to ensure a solid seal? And what should you use with the clear vinyl? I have used the notched clamps and the small stainless ones too. Both will leak unless I tighten the living daylights out of them.

The thing I mentioned in the prior post about using rubber hose around the clear vinyl line - that's something I read on another thread about clamping vinyl hose. The stuff just doesn't want to seal well.

Someone should correct me if I'm wrong - but instead of putting the vinyl line directly on the barb and hose clamping that down, you would first stick the end of the vinyl line through a short length of 3/8 ID rubber hose BEFORE fitting it onto the barb. When you clamp that down, it provides an even and much tighter seal.

Yah?[/quote]

[Quantum-man]

I'm about to replace my lines between water separator and filter with a short length of rubber, then a five foot length of 5/16 steel line, then rubber to the filter. I'll use clear between filter and pump.

Now clamping is a real issue. What should a person use with the hard lines to ensure a solid seal? And what should you use with the clear vinyl? I have used the notched clamps and the small stainless ones too. Both will leak unless I tighten the living daylights out of them.

The thing I mentioned in the prior post about using rubber hose around the clear vinyl line - that's something I read on another thread about clamping vinyl hose. The stuff just doesn't want to seal well.

Someone should correct me if I'm wrong - but instead of putting the vinyl line directly on the barb and hose clamping that down, you would first stick the end of the vinyl line through a short length of 3/8 ID rubber hose BEFORE fitting it onto the barb. When you clamp that down, it provides an even and much tighter seal.

Yah?

[/quote]

A bit like the windshield washer line joints...
I always boil the kettle and take a mug of hot water out with me, and dip the ends into it first

[jettaman8691]

Especially you Vegenator. You were very helpful. And I had forgotten how the windshield washer connections worked. Simple solutions work best.

[the vegenator]

PostPosted: Mon Jan 25, 2010 6:22 am Post subject: Thanks to all
Especially you Vegenator. You were very helpful. And I had forgotten how the windshield washer connections worked. Simple solutions work best.

No prob! I'm relatively new to in-depth car repair, so when I need answers I need them to be detailed and written in newbie-speak.

Glad I could help!

[jettaman8691]

Well, you certainly came to the right forum for help. The most interesting thread has been watching Hagar's grow; he really hit a nerve, and we all gained an important library, when he began those short few years ago. And that's the way the internet has been so very helpful; connecting people.
I have rebuilt my rig 3 times, changing gasser to dieselers. Turned a 1.6 n/a into a TD (professionally, by a shop)and recently had the pump rebuilt (also professionally). But the rest was by me. So like the Johnny Cash song, it's a 85-86-87-88-89-90-91-92 automobile.

[mtran]

Hi
I agre with you about how hard to clamp but WE are in love for clear lines so I use 8 mm ID and have issues like you.Rubber on vinyl man I gona try there I have space, bat same like
Quantum-man post
I always boil the kettle and take a mug of hot water out with me, and dip the ends into it first

One time I have only 7 mm ID and hard to put so I use hot gun air with clamp best so far (2 years -up to 10c ,sometime -15c but short) but when I put off
it`s also hard.I was about to use compresor`s connections ( one time you puting after easy on -off) but small ID and not clear line so I off.

[jettaman8691]

As I still have the old black lines, I may just put them back in, and use the clear lines in the engine compartment, along with the suggestion to have slip-overs on the connections. It is nice to be able to clearly see what the heck is going on with the fuel flow. It is worth it to have to change them out occasionally if they get old and brittle.
Had a tractor one time with saddle fuel tanks. The dealership had a good idea to equalize the fuel in the tanks when driving on steep hills. They use opaque hose, not sure what kind they were, but the diesel began eating them out from the inside. Even after replacing the hoses and cleaning the system, for months we would have to pull these little "worms" of white goo from the injectors.

[jettaman8691]

Well, after repeated attempts to stop the ever-present bubbles in the line from the tank to the filter (minus the water separator), I went back to the old lines. Still have the new clear nylon lines from the filter to the pump, and out of the pump to the return line to the tank. Taking out the water separator will not be a problem, and being able to see what is going on to the pump is a plus.
Retarded the pump a bit, just to where the the knock comes back. Smokes until it warms up good. Definitely helped quiet down the clackety noise when idling, and when driving. Backed off the pedal a bit, shifting earlier, so hopefully will see a nice mpg result.
Really nice to have a good motor setup under the hood. Maybe someday the paint job will come through so the ride will not look its' age. But man, this buggy fits me. Used to drive an '04 Ford 1/2 ton; back ache would last a week. Guess the knarly exterior will protect it from too much attention form thieves.