IP Leak at Banjo Bolt?

[Quantum-man]

Probably not more than 10 seconds, is what I need down to about -5 deg C.

[avocado]

Probably not more than 10 seconds, is what I need down to about -5 deg C.

Very enlightening! Thanks!

[avocado]

There are 2 copper washers on both outlet and inlet banjos.

Your leak likely as not is from the central bolt that you insert the timing gauge into. That bolt sees the maximum pressures from the piston, and needs to be fairly snug.

That washer is so small that it work hardens quickly with reuse, and so either needs to be re-annealed, or replaced every few experiments.
Officially every time, but I never did even after buying 200 on Ebay for less than the price of one from the stealership.

I had one go on a trip and it's a little frightening to see the squirting diesel when on the side of a busy interstate...

So it looks like I had two problems... My slow fuel leak (while parked) problem was due to a split fuel line end.

Now that I've gotten the bus started, though, it looks like my second problem is just this: the center bolt washer. Good call Quantum-man!

The problem is that the washer appears to be stuck in there. At least that's what it seems like from the bad angle I can see it from (and no washer came off with the bolt). I've tried to pry it out, but I didn't want to go too far before getting a better look with a mirror.

More info after dinner...

[Quantum-man]

It is nice and pink, so if you can't see it it could have dropped off from a previous removal.IIRC, a bare bolt will seal somewhat,
Assuming it is there, then if you don't have a replacement, gentle heat under a flame may help it to seal. Inspect the washer with a magnifying glass...

[avocado]

I managed to pick it out and get the bolt installed with a new washer. Unfortunately, that doesn't seem to have solved the problem. The leak instead seems to be coming from below that and to the right (looking down at the manifold, with the lines going away from it), or that fitting.

Next step is to loosen and re-seat that fitting. It's a press fit with no washer, right?

For what it's worth, my testing methodology is essentially to put a paper towel in different places to determine if the spray is visible or not.

[Quantum-man]

I managed to pick it out and get the bolt installed with a new washer. Unfortunately, that doesn't seem to have solved the problem. The leak instead seems to be coming from below that and to the right (looking down at the manifold, with the lines going away from it), or that fitting.

Next step is to loosen and re-seat that fitting. It's a press fit with no washer, right?

For what it's worth, my testing methodology is essentially to put a paper towel in different places to determine if the spray is visible or not.

Whatever works
Perhaps dry the manifold, and then crank the engine for a few seconds only and then stare at everything to catch the fist oozing.
Could it be from one of the fuel line fittings?

[avocado]

Perhaps dry the manifold, and then crank the engine for a few seconds only and then stare at everything to catch the fist oozing.

it's pretty dirty in there but that's worth a shot ...

Could it be from one of the fuel line fittings?

By fuel fittings, do you mean the fittings that connect the manifold to the injection line? If so, I totally think that's what it could be. I had tightened the fitting before to no effect, so I just loosened it all the way put a small dollop of locktite on the threads, and re-tightened. Doing some other cleanup shy I give it a moment to set...

[avocado]

It would appear to be that fitting...

[Quantum-man]

It would appear to be that fitting...

The joint between the fitting to pump or the fitting to the fuel line? I place my money on the fitting to fuelline. If I am correct, then the usual reason is due to damage to the tip of the fuel line.

Without due care, and probably over the years even with due care the tip becomes distorted and as it is softer than that valve fitting, looks like an American muffin overflowing it's case.
Magnifiying glasses will reveal this.
The good news is that a little filing with a fine file can restore the taper. This requires the line to be removed to be 'bedded in' using either a spare valve, or a spare injector in a vice. Then the fuel line can be loosely[fingertip-tight] bolted to this item and the fuel line swung/rotated to polish/mate the joint.

Incase of slightly differing tapers between the two items that the line fits to; use the appropriate one for the leaking joint.

The reason why this problem develops is because of the repeated use of 'tightening down' to cure leaks. A good fittting joint can almost seal with the nut finger tight.

Cam covers are also prone to leaks due to 'giving it a bit more' over a period of time, and distorting the cover....

[TylerDurden]

Agree...

The "bubble flare" is easy to mis-align on a delivery valve and will weep.

I hold each line with the flare firmly seated in the valve recess and snug the nut by hand, before a moderately firm turn with the wrench.

Spray brake parts cleaner evaporates quickly after flushing a suspected area, to show if fuel is creeping from a slow leak.

If not already noted, clean the water hoses & belts of spilt fuel - it will degrade the rubber and lead to premature failure.

[avocado]

Ah ha.

Thanks Volks... And duly noted.

[Quantum-man]

I hope this wasn't too boring for folks; if you can follow this then it'll surely keep Altzheimers at bay

Au contraire -it gives me pause to consider a DIY manometer (as 0-5psi gauges are absurdly costly).

As well as my bakelite one I seem to have this one. I'll have to think of a use for it!
What are Air shields?
EDIT: Ah I remember now, it's Oxygen tent stuff made by Vickers