oil pan gasket

[wkoucky]

I bought the gasket from the dealer, $32! The one I put on originally was $5 but it is leaking. $32 is a bargain if it keeps the oil in. I am not looking forward to pulling the pan. I still didn't get an answer about sealing this gasket. Should I use a product or just replace with the rubber gasket alons?

Thanks and Happy Thanksgiving!

Bill Koucky

[Quantum-man]

I bought the gasket from the dealer, $32! The one I put on originally was $5 but it is leaking. $32 is a bargain if it keeps the oil in. I am not looking forward to pulling the pan. I still didn't get an answer about sealing this gasket. Should I use a product or just replace with the rubber gasket alons?

Thanks and Happy Thanksgiving!

Bill Koucky

Maybe smear something that stays softish.
Important IMO to inspect the pan mating surface for hills and valleys... same for valve cover.
I have a picture on some thread or other but I can't be bothered to look for it ...

[libbybapa]

If using the rubber gasket I will typically do a light smear of RTV at the 4 joints where the cast iron block meets the aluminum seal retainers. Also, make sure the gasket for each of the seal retainers is not protruding past the pan sealing surface. If it is not flush, shave if with a razor blade. Other than that, I put it on dry. The thin paper/metal ones I will smear lightly on both sides with rtv. It makes it fairly difficult to remove the pan next time, but it does not leak.

[wkoucky]

Okay I did it now. I replaced the oil pan gasket and was very gentle with the aluminium alloy but somehow I striped the thread. I used a socket screw driver. I don't know how I did it but I stripped the thread. I helicoiled the same problem on my Rabbit truck when some bozo put in too long a thread and bottomed out the screw but these are the right screws and I did it still. The engine is installed and running great after months of rebuilding and I can't think about pulling the engine to get in there with a helicoil. Any ideas?

[tylernt]

I don't know how I did it but I stripped the thread.

Here's what I did. I just used plenty of Permatex Ultra Gray Gasket Maker on both sides of the gasket in the area of my stripped oil pan bolt. No leaks so far a few thousand miles later... crossing my fingers!!!

One thing that may help the above is to halfway torque the bolts, then let the Gasket Maker set up, then tighten to final torque. That way it doesn't all squeeze out so much.

That Ultra Gray stuff seems pretty good. I used it on a stripped fuel banjo on my motorcycle's carb, it's still holding up to gasoline years later. Heaven help you if you ever have to take it apart and scrape that stuff off, though.

[dieselsrock]

Actually I found out that what was actually broke off was a tap!!! I imagine the "genius" stripped out the hold and was tapping it for bigger bolt and broke the tap!!! So I am not too sure how well this extractor I bought from Sears is going to work. They are probably both made out of hardened steel. I didnt sign up for this lol. Anybody wanna buy a 4 dr 86 Golf diesel? I'm in east texas. Has new ball joints, new rear A-arm bushings, rebuilt injection pump, new timing belt and tensioner. Car has a crank sunroof and is equipped with A/C. No radio though. Runs good.

[surfcam]

Their's a couple of things you could try. Some machine shop and industrial suppliers have tap extractors that may work for you. They fit into the flutes of the tap. My guess is it bottomed out then snapped off. So the first thing to do is take a punch and hammer and hit it a few times. You have to make a small dint in the bottom of tap hole so the tap will loosen off. They also sell liquid nitrogen in a can that may help as well. Heating it up to soften it. Then drilling it is probably not an opinion with all the oil around.

[harvey]

mcmaster-carr (http://www.mcmaster.com) sells the tap extractors you're looking for. you'll have to figure out what size you need, but that shouldn't be too difficult.